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Econotig help - Stick

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  • gda
    replied
    cruizer, thanks for the input. From what I have learned by talking to the Miller techs, and reading the service manual, there are different circuits to the stick and tig halves. Even going through the large front selector AC/DCEP/DCEN switch the power comes in differently. Input power is fine, and the front pot works as checked with a multimeter.

    What I suspect is that when you switch to tig it jumps out all the starting circuts, and the circuit that uses the petal, and reverts to a simpler circuit. What I think is wrong is that there is a problem in this circuit on the stick side for the refernce to ground that the machine compairs the front dial (pot) to to determine how much amperage to output. Mine is stuck low - I've read other threads of other welders with a similar problem being stuck wide open (full current). I think it's called an SRL or something like that.

    If the tig did not work I'd much with the board - but since tig works fine I don't want to risk screwing around with it.

    Leave a comment:


  • cruizer
    replied
    If you have tig, you have the same amount of stick amperage, pretty simple machine. if you have your local control cranked. That'll be the output of your remote control.

    So either you didn't adjust the local control, or you have an input power problem.

    Leave a comment:


  • gda
    replied
    update if anybody is following this

    I've tracked the problem to the board. All the switches and pots check out. Miller sent me the service manual and I could go deeper to troubleshoot the board, but right now it is not worth the risk of damaging the machine to get the stick to work. Just trying to pull the spade connectors off puts more force on the board than I am comfortable with.

    Tig works fine so I'm going to leave it as-is. (Go easy on my welds - I'm still learning)

    Leave a comment:


  • gda
    replied
    Thanks Andy and JJE, you helped confirm that my machine should be doing more. I spent 5 minutes with Tech help today to do a little troubleshooting (real nice guy) - it tig welds fine, gets proper voltage in Stick mode, but will not drive a stick at the needed amps. I got off the phone to check the stinger cable connections. Unfortunately all looked good. For another test I put it in tig mode with the stick stinger plugged in, cranked the dial, and bottomed the pedal. It lit up a 1/8" 7018 rod and after laying an inch of bead it blew through 1/8" steel diamond plate. So there is some weird issue in the Stick mode (hopefully not the board). I'll call tech again tomorrow - but the guy told me in 10 years he has not heard these symptoms.

    Leave a comment:


  • JJE
    replied
    welding

    I have that welder and I just made a frame to fit the front of my tractor and the frame is made from two in. tubing 1/4 walls and the stick parts worked fine for me. The rods that I used where 1/8 7018's for root pass and coverd covered with 6013 some size. Amps on around 80 to 90 and it did the job great. As you know it is all in haw you get the work reddy to weld.

    Leave a comment:


  • Andy
    replied
    You shouldn't be having the troubles you are. I haven't run 7018 on the econotig, but I have run 1/8" and 5/32" 6011.
    The major complaint I have it that the amp knob isn't anything close to linear. The 80% setting I'd guess is more like 50%.
    How do you have the controls set? Be sure you don't have the lever selector set to the low AC range. I would set the controls: tig/stick switch set to stick, lever set to DC+, knob set to 100%.
    How does it perform doing tig? Does it feel like it's putting out plenty of power?

    Leave a comment:


  • Bert
    replied
    Originally posted by gda View Post
    Hi all,

    I just picked up a lightly used Econotig (I know many of you don't like them) But I feel I got a good deal with all the extras included, and I'm happy to start with it, so you should be happy for me too.
    Much thanks.
    I'm glad YOU feel you got a good deal, and it's not that we are happy for you, but there were too many negative things about that machine. We just worry for you.......and try to steer people to a better machine.
    Hmm...maybe that's why they sold it to you and SAID they never used it with stick before?? Anyway, you said you used 308 - 3/32 rod, try it with 6011 3/32 rod, if THAT doesn't work, sell it!!! I don't have an econotig, but if it can't do 3/32 6011, I wouldn't have ANY use for it....Hope someone that has an Econotig can chime in........Do a search for Econotig in the forum, and pm people that have it....maybe they can help you!
    good luck!!

    Leave a comment:


  • gda
    started a topic Econotig help - Stick

    Econotig help - Stick

    Hi all,

    I just picked up a lightly used Econotig (I know many of you don't like them) But I feel I got a good deal with all the extras included, and I'm happy to start with it, so you should be happy for me too. Down the road I'm sure I'll buy a bigger and better machine.

    It tigs fine. What I am not sure on it is the stick. (previous user never tried stick) It does not seem to have enough power to push a rod. I had it up to 100% on DC, AC, nothing would help. I could get it to strike an arc with 3/32 308 rod (smallest I had), but it was way underpowered and all I could do was melt the rod with essentially no penetration. 1/8" 7018 rods would not arc. I read in another post that the machine will not do 1/8" 7018. I'm not sure why - the DC stick upper limit is 130 amps, and the upper range for the 1/8" 7018 is somewhere around there. I have no problem with 7018 and less amps with my Hobart LX235.

    So my question is: Is this normal, is there anything inside the wrapper I should be checking? Anybody else have this issue?

    Much thanks.
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