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  • Anyone got a video camera and a spare helmet?

    I'm asking because of the issues i seem to have on Stainless steel. I can produce nicely colored beads in short runs and I"m happy with them. Bu my LWS sales rep always says i'm using the wrong amperage (too low) and that i need to turn it up and move faster. WEll, when i turn it up i either end up with over-cooked beads or am having to move too fast to get nice even puddling/toes on my welds.

    DOes anyone have a way to film how fast they would move on say some 1/8th SS plate on a T joint? Basically looking for an inside fillet weld as that's what i seem to do the most of... Even if it's not through a lense, i would like to just see how fast you guys are moving and the finished bead afterwards.

    Until i got my Dynasty i had only used other peoples TIG's (mainly all 250 SW's ) and i did very little SS, mainly borrowed them for aluminum and played on some mild stuff here and there... I always used a MIG and tri-mix gas on stainless when it was something for a customer
    Dynasty 200DX
    Hobart Handler 135
    Smith MB55A-510 O/A setup
    Lathe/Mill/Bandsaw
    Hypertherm Powermax 45
    Just about every other hand tool you can imagine

  • #2
    Originally posted by turboglenn View Post
    I'm asking because of the issues i seem to have on Stainless steel. I can produce nicely colored beads in short runs and I"m happy with them. Bu my LWS sales rep always says i'm using the wrong amperage (too low) and that i need to turn it up and move faster. WEll, when i turn it up i either end up with over-cooked beads or am having to move too fast to get nice even puddling/toes on my welds.

    DOes anyone have a way to film how fast they would move on say some 1/8th SS plate on a T joint? Basically looking for an inside fillet weld as that's what i seem to do the most of... Even if it's not through a lense, i would like to just see how fast you guys are moving and the finished bead afterwards.

    Until i got my Dynasty i had only used other peoples TIG's (mainly all 250 SW's ) and i did very little SS, mainly borrowed them for aluminum and played on some mild stuff here and there... I always used a MIG and tri-mix gas on stainless when it was something for a customer

    Tell him to come over and SHOW you how...then a mutual respect may develop from that or you can put him in the class with most sales reps.

    www.facebook.com/outbackaluminumwelding
    Miller Dynasty 700...OH YEA BABY!!
    MM 350P...PULSE SPRAYIN' MONSTER
    Miller Dynasty 280 with AC independent expansion card
    Miller Dynasty 200 DX "Blue Lightning"

    Miller Bobcat 225 NT (what I began my present Biz with!)
    Miller 30-A Spoolgun
    Miller WC-115-A
    Miller Spectrum 300
    Miller 225 Thunderbolt (my first machine bought new 1980)
    Miller Digital Elite Titanium 9400

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    • #3
      Originally posted by FusionKing View Post
      Tell him to come over and SHOW you how...then a mutual respect may develop from that or you can put him in the class with most sales reps.

      Already tried that.. He says since he came over to show me how to set it up and gave me "such a good deal" for everything I bought with my 10k dollars this fall, that he "will try and get by here after work one day"

      That didn't make any sense to me, so i told him to not worry about it if taking my money wasn't enough to get some help. Sadly the only other rep there is so booked up half the time that our scheduals won't meet up. Said I'd probably have to come there with my setup.... So you can guess why i'm not spending much more money there these days.. I'm still Uber_pissed that i got an "old stock" 200dx without the optional wave form menu :/ when i clearly bought it after that feature was available. They've gotten me so mad lately that i actually wrote miller a letter with the survey they sent me to hopefully get some one from them to contact me.

      Everyone else i know can't TIG as good as i can and they all think my welds are the best they've seen.... And that's not me bragging, that's what i get when i ask for tips from others i know that have welded longer than I have.
      Dynasty 200DX
      Hobart Handler 135
      Smith MB55A-510 O/A setup
      Lathe/Mill/Bandsaw
      Hypertherm Powermax 45
      Just about every other hand tool you can imagine

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      • #4
        Turbo , I weld alot of stainless x-ray boiler tubing and from my experiance most people weld stainless way to hot . Most of our tubing is between 1.5 and 2.5 " and wall thickness from say .165 to .660 , the hottest I ever run is around 75 amps . I see guys trying to "smoke" it on and run rediculous heat thinking it will spead it up and make it flow better , they usually end up with crappy cooked welds . Stainless is my favorite thing to weld you just have to be patient .
        Dynasty 200DX "Blue Lightning"
        Bernard 3500ss water-cooler
        Rockwell vertical mill
        Beverly Shear B-3
        Beverly Shear JR
        Home-made English wheel
        Milwaukee Porta-band
        " Sawz-all
        Tennsmith 36" stomp shear
        Fixer upper 1968 Redface Lincoln sa200
        Powcon 300st

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        • #5
          I found that viewing these videos helped me a great deal in getting the proper set-up and technique. Your results may vary

          http://www.tonywelding.com/

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          • #6
            Mooney..thansk for the link.. I'll wathc them tonight.. just run the video feed from my PC to the living room TV

            Showdog... I am with you.. I was welding some 1/16th and 1/8 SS using only between 50 and 70 amps (50 on the 1/16 and 70 on the 1/8) and they said i was going to slow and that i should be running at least 90 amps or more and going way faster, but everytime i do i get inconsistant welds and when they are consistant i've already heated all teh chromium and such out of the stainless leaving it dull adn grey. Personally, I shoot for Gold welds.. I will tolorate up top blue welds (the normal ranbow colors) although i know that isn't "optimal" but they hold and are pretty in my eyes.. I love color :P

            Just always looking to improve.. I'm one that believes the day you feel there's no more to learn, then that's the day you might as well give up.
            Dynasty 200DX
            Hobart Handler 135
            Smith MB55A-510 O/A setup
            Lathe/Mill/Bandsaw
            Hypertherm Powermax 45
            Just about every other hand tool you can imagine

            Comment


            • #7
              I'm no expert on stainless, but my experience tells me your rep is wrong. Stainless doesn't like hot fast welding. Take you time and look at the finished product. That is how you know if it is done right. I like a #8 cup on my 20 series with gas lens. I'm looking at a Champagne nozzle to see if i can get even better results on stainless and because i just started Ti.
              Dynasty 200 DX
              Millermatic 175
              Spectrum 375
              All kinds of Smith OA gear

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              • #8
                I agree and that is why I suggested you have him come and show you...I doubt he can back up what he is telling you to do at all. Hot and fast is not a stainless tig technique. Maybe he thinks you are migging it, otherwise he is PROBABLY a [email protected]$$
                Unless he has enuff exp. from from prior working somewhere that he is simply out of your league and can just lay it down like a machine. Those people do exist.

                www.facebook.com/outbackaluminumwelding
                Miller Dynasty 700...OH YEA BABY!!
                MM 350P...PULSE SPRAYIN' MONSTER
                Miller Dynasty 280 with AC independent expansion card
                Miller Dynasty 200 DX "Blue Lightning"

                Miller Bobcat 225 NT (what I began my present Biz with!)
                Miller 30-A Spoolgun
                Miller WC-115-A
                Miller Spectrum 300
                Miller 225 Thunderbolt (my first machine bought new 1980)
                Miller Digital Elite Titanium 9400

                Comment


                • #9
                  Heat does not transfer well in stainless. That means the heat you put in stays there longer. These guys are right, you don't need as much to get a good weld. Test it for yourself, weld some pieces up and try to bend them to get a root failure. You'll find the best settings for what your welding and be able to educate your LWS. Sometimes they need it.

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                  • #10
                    I'd take him a weld you are comfortable with, and tell him you did it hotter, and see how full of $hit he is. I really would rather talk to experienced welders than salespeople.

                    I asked one of my instructors about stainless TIG, as we are doing that in school right now. I felt I was moving too slow. He said as long as you are getting the salmon colour, that is the right temp. Make sure you don't have any sugaring on the back side, and that tells you your temp is good. I would only increase the speed/temp if I was comfortable and had comparable welds.

                    I'm doing some nice welds with a Miller Dynasty 350 at 58A on 1/8 stainless, in 2F and 3F position. Tungsten is 1/8, filler is 3/32.

                    Hope this helps.
                    "When the wise old rooster crows, the smart young rooster listens."

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                    • #11
                      I am in a similar boat. I am doing some .065 x 1.5x1.5 316 tube. I am comfortable with the heat now for the most part... Salmon to bronze color. Well, I am using 1/16 316 filler and I don't know if I am depositing too much or my filler is too big but it seems it cools the puddle too fast maybe. The filler momentarily sticks when depositing. Is this normal?I am used to doing aluminum where the filler/ filling process is very fast, fluid and consistent. Dave

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                      • #12
                        Your rep has a point that is overlooked by many. Too low of an amperage setting and a large wire can cause you to spend too much time in a single spot.

                        The amperage is not the issue but the heat input. This is related to travel speed. If you use 40 amp and travel at 2 ipm but bump it up to 80 and use 5 ipm travel speed.

                        There have also been studies showing similar heat inputs with higher travels speeds and amperages showing much different heat affected zone sizes. This is shown in one of the James F. Lincoln foundation books but I don't remember the title but I look it up.

                        If you are having trouble and waiting for a puddle t o form you are too cold and the arc is preheating the surrounding base metal before you ever get a puddle started.

                        You level of skill will also affect the amperage you can weld at. Higher amperages require higher travel speedds. If you cannot move at that speed, you need to turn it down.

                        Also watch for heat buildup in your material. Allowing it to cool some will help with the color. The color is the result of what temperature the metal is at when it is touched by the air.

                        If you are forming a pullde pretty quickly and loosing color, you are probably too hot. If tyou are struggling to get a puddle started, t hen you may be too cold.

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                        • #13
                          Pipewelder , very good explaination . I understand what you are saying but I don't always know how to put it into words . I suggested to the original poster to use 1/16 filler wire because it consumes easier and you don't have to run smokin hot to get the filler to flow into the puddle well . Most folks I'm around that struggle with stainless usually put way to much heat into it either by running to many amps or by waiting around to long to get the to large filler metal to be consumed .
                          Dynasty 200DX "Blue Lightning"
                          Bernard 3500ss water-cooler
                          Rockwell vertical mill
                          Beverly Shear B-3
                          Beverly Shear JR
                          Home-made English wheel
                          Milwaukee Porta-band
                          " Sawz-all
                          Tennsmith 36" stomp shear
                          Fixer upper 1968 Redface Lincoln sa200
                          Powcon 300st

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