Yet another Dynasty 200DX HF Start thread

[hippchip]

Arc Start board

http://www.millerwelds.com/om/o2226g_mil.pdf
try this link look on one of the last 5 pages PC7 part number 189939

Doesn't that just wreck your day!

Mine just gave up as well! No more HF arc start period. My 200DX has 2hrs 04min on it It was bought in Aug 05. I have two other MIG welder so never used this much until I started to work with stainless. SN is LF169431.

I have tightened every external connection and tried all new parts. No luck.
Anybody know where this elusive HF board is located? Can't find it in the manual. Also, is the HF start board used to switch a IGBT?

Cheers!

I hope your having a better day than me

[davido30093]

Since his last post was more than four years ago, I think that he has probably figured it out by now.

[Cgotto6]

Gotta love digging up the dead.

[JKR]

I'm digging up this old thread because it's one of the first hits, while googling Miller Dynasty HF issues. Also, I have new relevant information to share.

1st, the part# has been superseded from 189939 to 230174

2nd, the above mentioned part can be found relatively cheaper from here... http://miller4less.com/product_info....ducts_id=64016

This info is probably only relevant to new owners of old equipment that slipped through the cracks many years ago. I bought a 2007 200dx that supposedly worked as it should. I had a repair person look into it, and was quoted $800 to replace the arch start board. I really can't justify paying $700 plus labor to fix this small issue. $540 is not fun either, but it's closer to reasonable. Before I pull the trigger, I will look at the board to see, if it is a small matter of replacing a capacitor or such. I doubt that I will be that lucky, but I will do due diligence before forking out hard earned freedom dollars.

[JKR]

I got back the Technicians notes from the repair guy, he came up with a different part # 230191

Now I'm confused about which is which. Can someone else clarify the part #? The online store has a pretty unfavorable return policy for guesstimating.

[pat h]

So much for buying name brands the older dynastys had piss poor arcs from the get go I bought in 03 was told for yrs that's how inverters are than they came out with blue lightning 5 yrs later try buying parts for top of line dynasty 300 ( everybody on here says they were problem child) or the millermatic 250everybody shames you if your buying imports for poor service never got any on my last new miller purchase in 03, 4 (miller)before than,3 thermal arcs and 2 Lincolns 1 esab since than never looked back save your money and buy new and sell the old junk for parts it's worth more

[pat h]

30+ yr UA member

[ryanjones2150]

That's a good long career there Pat. It's a little hard to follow your rant, but are you saying you haven't purchased a miller machine since 2003 and moved on to thermal arc, Lincoln and esab? I'd say those are all name brands though. <br />
<br />
I'll certainly agree about the MM250, albeit a beast of a machine, it definitely has a harsh arc. It's my main wire feed welder in the shop though. I do have battles with it, that's for sure. <br />
<br />
I think some on here are closer to shaming someone over an import machine, but I would not describe it as malicious. From my personal experience with imports, the customer service was the absolute worst I've ever had in any industry. That seems to be a trend across the board with those outfits. It's just a fact. I would imagine the service from Lincoln and esab would be good though. My one experience with customer service with esab was great.

[JKR]

save your money and buy new and sell the old junk for parts it's worth more

I bought this used for a lot of freedom dollars. I don't think that I can just abandon it. If it works correctly after the new board, it should carry its weight just fine. Sorry that you've had less luck with these.

I work at school with 10 booths dynasty 200DXs and another 10 booths linclon inverters. All the millers work as they should, but 2 of the lincolns have issues. So that's my experience with red vs blue. That is not all the booths either. From other red vs. blue stuff around the shop, the blue seems to run better and lasts longer.

With that said I'm still sad to have to pay out for a new board.

[Bigjeff]

I have had this same problem ,I removed the hf contacts and put them on a surface grinder we use to sharpen punches I took off only enough to make them perfectly flat and square again ,reinstalled ,set at .008 gap and now I get a nice consistent spark all the way around the contacts and it starts every time first time