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Can I get some O/A weld bead pics?

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  • Can I get some O/A weld bead pics?

    Another recent thread inspired me to search on this and didn't return much, just a lot of mention of O/A welding.

    I've not been at it too long with the torch and have no clue how far on or off track i am.

    I've used a torch for years to cut bolts, free stuck parts, heat and bending metal and all sorts of odds and ends things. But now I am really interested in being able to utilize my OA setup to it's potential and learn to weld with it and braze a little neater than i cna already

    I tried welding with no flux last night and used 2 different tig rods for my filler. one was low silicone bronze and the other was some 70s-2. I did one side of the joint with each rod and got them to all fuse together but the weld was rather sloppy looking and seemed more like just melting some things together as compared to actually welding.

    Out of all the info i have on book, bookmarked on the web atc.. I really dont' have much detailed info on O/A welding. Sure i have the whole process explained but it's all so vague it reminds me of a mechanics manual made by haynes where when you're done pulling the piece apart it just says "assembly is the reverse of dis-assembly"

    So.. I was just hoping to see some pics of oa welds and maybe listen in for some pointers at the same time. Like i also said, i'd love to hear some brazing tips too. I cna braze parts together but the brazed area always ends up huge and it seems in welding andbrazing my torch gasses have too much force when exiting making the puddle blow around or ball into one area....
    Dynasty 200DX
    Hobart Handler 135
    Smith MB55A-510 O/A setup
    Lathe/Mill/Bandsaw
    Hypertherm Powermax 45
    Just about every other hand tool you can imagine

  • #2
    The rod you want I think is like RG-60 I think that's the #. Welds look different with the correct rod anyways. I could be wrong that maybe an alternate choice but I do know from personal exp when it's done right it looks every bit as nice as a tig weld.
    It's how I learned to weld (at 13 I'm now 50) and also how I had my middle son learn as well.
    IMO it should be the first thing anybody/everybody should master before moving into anything electric.
    If you learn it you will be very happy you did...keep going for it

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    • #3
      Yea, there's RG45 and RG60 specifically for OA welding, but the LWS told me that i could use 70s-2 in a pinch or to learn on. I will get some correct filler soon (bills come first and my woman can't contribute until after janua unfotunately)

      I'm really fascinated by torch welding, just as much as i have been with every other method i've learned/tried. I guess i love anything to do with metal honestly, and i WILL learn this. I want to be able to do 4130 the "old fashion" wayand learn to make any other repairs i may be able to with an O/A setup.

      But like i said all the books i have and bookmarks are sooooo vague about it, almost as if you should already know it or something. Being that i'm a bit younger 31, by the time i was able to buy my first machine 10 years ago MIG was extremely affordable and not only less of a hazard but the machine i got was so small it was also more portable. (HH 135amp - 110volt machine)

      ONe thing i'm still trying to figure out is where to keep the flame for welding, do you set it more towards neutral or more towards oxdizing? The carberizing flame seems to almost be too cold to weld, neutral seems good for brazing but takes forever to ppuddle up metal for welding. But as i stated earlier when i set it where it will puddle easily it blows my filler around. I'm only running between 3 to 5 psi on both oxygen and acetaline
      Dynasty 200DX
      Hobart Handler 135
      Smith MB55A-510 O/A setup
      Lathe/Mill/Bandsaw
      Hypertherm Powermax 45
      Just about every other hand tool you can imagine

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      • #4
        Tinmantech.com has some good oaw welding videos. there a bit ry and longwinded but he does a good job of explaining the details. he also does oaw alluminum, which has many benefits over tig. i rented mine at smartflix.com.
        Dynasty 200 DX
        Millermatic 175
        Spectrum 375
        All kinds of Smith OA gear

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        • #5
          I wonder if my netflix has instructional DVD's? I just get whatever movies they randomly send when i don't ahve anything in my que. So i could just fill every other spot up with welding DVD's if they have them... thanks for the hint on that, i may have found a way to not spend any more moeny and still watch allthe welding DVD'd i want.... Not that i think about it i wonder if the Covel ones are on there as well??????
          Dynasty 200DX
          Hobart Handler 135
          Smith MB55A-510 O/A setup
          Lathe/Mill/Bandsaw
          Hypertherm Powermax 45
          Just about every other hand tool you can imagine

          Comment


          • #6
            Glenn,

            I recommend you look online for a copy of The Oxy-Acetylene Weldor's Handbook by T.B. Jefferson. I got my 1st copy with a Craftsman O/A kit I bought in 1970. This is a pocket sized hardback book with all of the basics. My original copy was falling apart, so I found a used copy on the web for under $10. My brother-in-law bought a copy at a Sears Hardware 9-10 years ago. I recommend waiting for some O/A filler rod. If you were in Houston, I would give you some.

            I agree with FusionKing that O/A should come before anything else, especially TIG.

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            • #7
              It's funny you mentioned problems with 70s-2. A few weeks back, I was fixing up a bracket on my mower using O/A and accidentally grabbed a rod of 70S-2 and wondered what was wrong. Grabbed a new rod of my O/A rod, and everthing was OK. I learned on O/A 35 years ago, and like others said, it should be your first welding experience.

              Brazing will never look as nice as a fusion weld. Once you have learned how to fusion weld, you will never go back to brazing. (except for dissimilar metals)

              It also sounds like you are pushing too much pressure out your tip. Even though your pressure settings on the gauge are OK, you should never run the adjuster open enough to get that pressure at the tip. For a beginner, I would slightly crack the acetylene, light, then open just enough to start the "turbulance" fan-out, and then open the O2 to a neutral cone. If this isn't enough heat, grab a larger tip. When you get better, you can turn it up more, but then you are battling the pressure wanting to blow out your puddle.
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              • #8
                You mentioned a few things, one was flame carburetion, you want a neutral flame, you don't want to oxidize the weld or load it with carbon.
                What brand of torch are you using?
                What metal thickness and tip size are you using? correct tip size means a lot.
                Correct gas pressure for the tip size is important.
                You are using acetylene? Propane does not do well welding.

                PS- Tip sizes vary with manufacturers.
                To all who contribute to this board.
                My sincere thanks , Pete.

                Pureox OA
                Westinghouse 300 amp AC stick
                Miller Syncrowave 250
                Hexacon 250 watt solder iron

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                • #9
                  I'm using the Smith torch in my sig, running acetaline, # 3 welding tip ( i think it's rated at 1/8th inch) So i'm sticking with materials 1/8th and under.

                  Seems when i use a nice quiet flame i can braze good but not get a good puddle going with it. As soon as i open up the fuel and oxygen and make a sharp oxidizing flame i can puddle the material in just a few seconds.

                  well, on lunch and gotta get back
                  Last edited by turboglenn; 11-17-2008, 02:24 PM.
                  Dynasty 200DX
                  Hobart Handler 135
                  Smith MB55A-510 O/A setup
                  Lathe/Mill/Bandsaw
                  Hypertherm Powermax 45
                  Just about every other hand tool you can imagine

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by turboglenn View Post
                    I'm using the Smith torch in my sig, running acetaline, # 3 welding tip ( i think it's rated at 1/8th inch) So i'm sticking with materials 1/8th and under.

                    Seems when i use a nice quiet flame i can braze good but not get a good puddle going with it. As soon as i open up the fuel and oxygen and make a sharp oxidizing flame i can puddle the material in just a few seconds.

                    well, on lunch and gotta get back
                    Try jumping up to a #4, or whatever the next larger tip Smith offers.(I use Victor so my sizes are different)
                    The hole size and pressure should be the same though. For Victor, I show a hole size, drill size, #56 - #53 (Victor tip 2 or 3)

                    Tip #2 Oxygen 3-5 PSI acetylene 3-5 PSI
                    Tip #3 oxygen 4-7 PSI acetylene 3-6 PSI

                    The tip size is not an exact science, as to the right #, but when you get it right it will go smooth. I guess there are other factors that can affect tip size. Temperature is probably a biggy.

                    Hope this helps, if I get a chance I will go make a bead to photograph.

                    PS- Do you have a pocket guide for your torch tips?
                    If not, they are usually free and are quite handy to have. I think I have a smith guide here somewhere, I can copy the tip size and gas pressure chart for you until you can get one if you want.
                    Last edited by burninbriar; 11-17-2008, 05:12 PM.
                    To all who contribute to this board.
                    My sincere thanks , Pete.

                    Pureox OA
                    Westinghouse 300 amp AC stick
                    Miller Syncrowave 250
                    Hexacon 250 watt solder iron

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Yea, i have the pocket guide, it's a poretty big help. I keep one copy in my torch cart and the other with the rest of my machine's literature.

                      And after checking i do have tip # 3 and you're correct with the drill sizes of 53 - 56 as those are the ones i use to clean them.

                      Would love to see that pic if you can get it don'e

                      thanks
                      Glenn
                      Dynasty 200DX
                      Hobart Handler 135
                      Smith MB55A-510 O/A setup
                      Lathe/Mill/Bandsaw
                      Hypertherm Powermax 45
                      Just about every other hand tool you can imagine

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I found my Smith book. They say for 1/8" to use a #5 at 10 PSI on both gasses.
                        I copied the page. I hope its readable.

                        I guess you don't need it anyway.
                        Attached Files
                        Last edited by burninbriar; 11-17-2008, 05:34 PM.
                        To all who contribute to this board.
                        My sincere thanks , Pete.

                        Pureox OA
                        Westinghouse 300 amp AC stick
                        Miller Syncrowave 250
                        Hexacon 250 watt solder iron

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Good thread, my welds don't look very good using O/A, I've tried to destroy them and they seem to be OK, but I've have the same trouble with the weld puddle, I'll try backing on the pressure a little.

                          M
                          sigpic

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                          • #14
                            I suggest RG-45, RG-60 is too 'thick' and doesn't flow as well. Yes, for welding, you want a neutral flame. The 'proper' adjustment for each tip is to light the acetylene, open until the soot stops (full feather); then open the oxy until you have a neutral flame (this is the most 'efficient' flame, as in 'gas mileage'). From here, you can adjust up or down several hundred degrees on each tip size (so there is an overlap).

                            With my Harris torch, tip size corresponds to pressure. A #4 gets 4 lbs, both sides, per the booklet. However, in class, I seemed to add a couple pounds and adjust to the flame; again starting with the acet at full feather.

                            Tip size reference:

                            http://mewelding.com/welding/?page_id=100

                            I bought my O/A in 1977 and that's all I had until 1993, when I bought my Syncro 250. I don't think I've lit the O/A a dozen times since. However, when I started welding class, my instructor insisted I start with O/A. I did, and learned a lot about puddle control. He also made me learn vertical, overhead, and horizontal. If you can't weld vert and ovhd, you have much to learn. It's quite humbling.
                            RETIRED desk jockey.

                            Hobby weldor with a little training.

                            Craftsman O/A---Flat, Vert, Ovhd, Horz.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Craig in Denver View Post
                              I suggest RG-45, RG-60 is too 'thick' and doesn't flow as well. Yes, for welding, you want a neutral flame. The 'proper' adjustment for each tip is to light the acetylene, open until the soot stops (full feather); then open the oxy until you have a neutral flame (this is the most 'efficient' flame, as in 'gas mileage'). From here, you can adjust up or down several hundred degrees on each tip size (so there is an overlap).

                              With my Harris torch, tip size corresponds to pressure. A #4 gets 4 lbs, both sides, per the booklet. However, in class, I seemed to add a couple pounds and adjust to the flame; again starting with the acet at full feather.

                              Tip size reference:

                              http://mewelding.com/welding/?page_id=100

                              I bought my O/A in 1977 and that's all I had until 1993, when I bought my Syncro 250. I don't think I've lit the O/A a dozen times since. However, when I started welding class, my instructor insisted I start with O/A. I did, and learned a lot about puddle control. He also made me learn vertical, overhead, and horizontal. If you can't weld vert and ovhd, you have much to learn. It's quite humbling.
                              I used to use the gageless regulators, we called them junk-yard regulators, never really trusted the numbers on them but they are tough as nails. Anyway, the way I did them was to open the torch valve a few turns and adjust at the regulator until the flame jumps from the tip then adjust at the torch as you stated. Then open the oxygen a few turns and adjust at the regulator until I get an oxidizing flame, then adjust at the torch to get a good neutral flame.
                              I have overhead welded with the torch, I don't recommend it if at all possible.
                              I got more than my share of burns from that.
                              To all who contribute to this board.
                              My sincere thanks , Pete.

                              Pureox OA
                              Westinghouse 300 amp AC stick
                              Miller Syncrowave 250
                              Hexacon 250 watt solder iron

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