Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

5g, 6" Sch.40, Student

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • 5g, 6" Sch.40, Student

    I am currently doing my 5g on 6" sch.40 1/8 Gap & Land. And 1/8 6010 root/hot. 7018 1/8 Cap. I can get a decent root & hot pass. But the cap is super tricky for me, the overhead part is where my cap fails visual everytime! Can anybody offer me any tips on that evil overhead weave ? We arnt allowed to grind at all so by the time my hot pass is in its almost flush with edge of pipe. I can do the vertical and flat portion of pipe great, the over head seems to get soo hot and start to droop. I gotta stop about 1 1/2" after every rod light up, and let it cool. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

  • #2
    Without watching what your doing and seeing the results its hard to pin down what you can do. Here are a few ideas.

    1) Keep the ARC as short as possible. It may actually touch the slag.

    2) The more time you spend in the middle of the puddle, t he hotter the puddle gets. The hotter the puddle gets, the longer it stays hot. The longer it stays hot, the more time to sag.

    3) Practice on some plate in the overhead position BUT have your amperage set where you are comfortable with the vertical. If you can weld the plate ok like this t hen you need to work on getting more comfortable going around the pipe. Make sure you are not stopping or slowing down your forward progression as you concentrate on transitioning your rod angle as your come around the pipe.

    Comment


    • #3
      If you've got your rod angled back toward the puddle it will put more heat into the forming bead and not let it cool as fast.
      If your rod is about straight toward the center of the pipe you are giving the bead it's best chance to cool quickly.

      Next time you practice, after you have hot passed the pipe, weld your trouble spot, clean it off and rotate the pipe and weld the bottom again, that will give you a lot more arc time on the bottom and that means you'll figure it out a lot quicker.

      My take,

      JTMcC.
      Some days you eat the bear. And some days the bear eats you.

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks Guys

        Thanks for the advice Any weave motion tips? Ill keep you posted how it goes... thanks again

        Comment


        • #5
          Personally I don't like it flush when I'm capping with LoHi.
          I'd work at leaving it shy of flush and see if it helps you, it certainly does me.

          A cap on a stick pipe weld is only as good as how you fill it. Fill it right, and uniform and you have that much more of a uniform, slick cap in my opinion.

          JTMcC.
          Some days you eat the bear. And some days the bear eats you.

          Comment


          • #6
            Pipe Weld

            Ya prefer it a little less than flush myself, however we are not allowed to grind the weld AT ALL. Sucks but oh well, so ya its pretty fricken hard my root and hot pass fill her up, im trying super hard to keep it all low but gotta make do with it for now. I got it a bit better today. Im learning to weave and move fast , :P well ill keep yas posted . .

            Comment


            • #7
              Try and keep it a little under flush, and when you do your cap concentrate on holding the sides of your weave, don't worry about the middle of the puddle it will take care of itself, hold the side get across hold the side, keep it fluid but don't hesitate in the middle, get a rythm going, count to yourself, one thousand one get across on thousand one get across, etc,etc. Keep a tight arc and as close to 90 degrees as possible. Practice this overhead on pipe and plate and it will work. Best of luck.

              Comment


              • #8
                If your hot pass is flush, you don't even need a groove to practice. Just practice capping bare pipe. Only coming off the bottom where you are struggling. Don't practice the part you have down.
                Lay out lines representing the bevel edges with soapstone if it helps you keep the width right.
                All I ever do on a weave is back and forth, zig and zag. When the edge is tied in nicely, move on down the road, repeat a few thousand times
                There isn't much of a weave on the pipe you're welding, at least nothing like say .750 Wall or greater. Tie in the edge and get to moving. That's my theory.
                If you can't keep the metal in the groove you might be too hot.

                My take.

                JTMcC.
                Some days you eat the bear. And some days the bear eats you.

                Comment


                • #9
                  No grinding, a 6010 hotpass and then 1/8" lo-hi on .280" wall. I can see it being a tough one to master. Doing it on the job, I'd instinctively grab 3/32".

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I see you are in bc. I assume you are doing your B level. The curriculum doesnt not state that the 7018 has to be 1/8th. I would use 3/32 for the test. Also when you do your pwp7 which is this f3 f4 procedure that you are talking about it allows you to use 3/32 7018. I wonder how hot you are running your root and hot pass. When doing your root is the light inside the pipe or are you carrying a large keyhole. This will affect how much metal is inside the bevel. Also may I suggest possibly turning up your hot pass and move quicker. also with a hotter hotpass you can generally flatten the bead out more. leaving a better base. I actually was just in at my local 170 training facility and did this procedure today so it is fresh in my head. also thinking back to when I was learning. Keep a tight arc and get comfortable. Very comfortable.

                    hope that helps, mind you this is all just a shot in the dark without being able to see the weld or you weld it.

                    let us know how you make out

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by pgdsm View Post
                      I see you are in bc. I assume you are doing your B level. The curriculum doesnt not state that the 7018 has to be 1/8th. I would use 3/32 for the test. Also when you do your pwp7 which is this f3 f4 procedure that you are talking about it allows you to use 3/32 7018. I wonder how hot you are running your root and hot pass. When doing your root is the light inside the pipe or are you carrying a large keyhole. This will affect how much metal is inside the bevel. Also may I suggest possibly turning up your hot pass and move quicker. also with a hotter hotpass you can generally flatten the bead out more. leaving a better base. I actually was just in at my local 170 training facility and did this procedure today so it is fresh in my head. also thinking back to when I was learning. Keep a tight arc and get comfortable. Very comfortable.

                      I agree i prefer doin the root and hotpass with 6010 1/8 and then fill and cap with 3/32 7018. and the 3/32 runs at the same temp as 6010 1/8. wich makes it easy when you half to walk two hundred feet to your machine to change the settings

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X