Dewalt Multi Cutter Saw

[monte55]

I have a DW872 saw which I like. The original blade on it needs to be sharpened. I just purchaced a elec saw blade sharpener from Harbor Freight
on sale for $59. It comes with two wheels........one amber and one diamond.
It seems well made for that price.
Anyway..............the original blade has a wierd center hole shape that requires an aluminum ring spacer/adapter to fit on the saw. I also have a new replacement blade by Dewalt for the saw. It has a round center hole and doesn't need the aluminum ring to fit the saw.

Both blades are DW7747 by Dewalt. The carbide tip faces on the original blade are ground flat, perpendicular to the side of the blade. Near the center is MYJ9.
The new blade has MYA6 in the center. I wonder if this is actually an older blade. This is why I'm curious. The replacement blade has the same Model #, same 70 tooth, ..........but the carbide teeth are ground differently. The face of each tooth is ground at a 7 degree angle, but one tooth is ground on one side and the next is ground the opposite. I wonder why. This blade has the grind angles printed on the blade. I am wondering if the newer blade is actually an older style going by the letters/numbers in the center. The blades are not cheap so the HF sharpener seems like a good deal. I never have sharpened a blade before so it took me a while to set it up but the 70 tooth blade took less than 10 min to sharpen with me double checking. Any other input about these blades from Dewalt owners would be appreciated.
Nick

Here is a link to the sharpener:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=96687

I would imagine, being that it has a diamond wheel, it would make a great tungsten sharpener.

[Laiky]

If your refering to the HF sharpener where the blade lays flat, i'm very interested in knowing how it works. Did you test the blade after sharpening? i would love to know, i have 2 dead milwaukee blades i paid almost 200 bucks for, and 2 new freuds i'm worried about!

I know that there are different tooth designs, the freuds are triple chip blades. One tooth is angled left, one right, and one strait. None are the full width of the kerf. Can't explain the de-walts, may be they came from different factories.

Please post an update or even pictures, if it's not too much trouble.

[monte55]

Link for sharpener attatched...see my previous post

[Laiky]

Thanks for pointing that out! Thats the one i saw. I would buy one if you get good results with the one you sharpened. Have you tested it yet? Is the finish as good as the factory? does the diamond wheel cut well, do you think it will last?

[monte55]

Saw Blade Sharpener pics

LAIKY, (and others interested)

Here are some pictures of the sharpener with a 14 inch 70 tooth DeWalt metal cutting blade with carbide teeth.
First pics are of sharpening top of the tooth (rake?)
Pay close attention to the setup of motor position, blade position, etc.

[monte55]

Saw Blade Sharpener pics

These pics are of grinding the face of the carbide tooth. Again, pay close attention to the setup of the motor, blade holder and the last pic (which is the tooth indexer stop). It springs one direction as you turn the blade and acts as a stop when you reverse the direction so each tooth will be ground the same.

[monte55]

Saw Blade Sharpener pics

Here is a pic of the sharpened blade and a couple of a piece of metal I cut with the blade I just sharpened. The grinding operation may not be perfect but it worked. I think, for the $59 price, it is well worth it; especially coming with a diamond blade. This could also be used to sharpen tungstens, lathe turning tools, etc.
FINAL NOTE; (AND I FEEL THIS IS A VERY IMPORTANT STEP) WHICH I DID NOT DO UNTIL I THOUGHT ABOUT IT AT THE END AND REGROUND THE BLADE.

It is very difficult to tell if the face of your carbide tip is flat against the diamond wheel because it is so small.
Take a Sharpie marker and on the side of the blade, mark your starting tooth to be sharpened...ALSO mark the face of the tooth with the black marker. When you feel you have your setup proper and ready to grind, do a very light test grind on this blackened tooth face. If you are not even across the face it will be evident and you must readjust your setup. Remark the tooth face and do another light test grind until you have the geometry correct. Do not move to another tooth until you have this correct. Once correct and your indexer stop is set properly, every tooth will be identical and the grinding will go very quickly. Spending $59 to save the life of $100 plus blades is a NO BRAINER.

I am not sure if I am doing everything correctly and if I am not, maybe someone can point it out. I am sure I will get better as I go.

[wolfie]

let us know how the re sharpened blade cuts the photos look good.

[Laiky]

Thanks for the review Monte, i saw it but didn't want to spend the money on another HF POS. Based on your review i think i'm going to snag one, as soon as i clear a place to put it.

[monte55]

Saw blade sharpener plus Tungsten Sharpener

Here's another use for the diamond blade carbide saw sharpener...
It works very well for sharpening your tungstens in the shop.
All of this for only $59!! What a great deal.

[StillBoostin]

Nice review. I'll get one when I buy a dry cut saw. Love the tungsten sharpener.

James

[paulrbrown]

These pics are of grinding the face of the carbide tooth. Again, pay close attention to the setup of the motor, blade holder and the last pic (which is the tooth indexer stop). It springs one direction as you turn the blade and acts as a stop when you reverse the direction so each tooth will be ground the same.

Monte, thanks for posting these pictures.....looks like a great product, best regards, Paul from FLA.

[paulrbrown]

Here is a pic of the sharpened blade and a couple of a piece of metal I cut with the blade I just sharpened. The grinding operation may not be perfect but it worked. I think, for the $59 price, it is well worth it; especially coming with a diamond blade. This could also be used to sharpen tungstens, lathe turning tools, etc.
FINAL NOTE; (AND I FEEL THIS IS A VERY IMPORTANT STEP) WHICH I DID NOT DO UNTIL I THOUGHT ABOUT IT AT THE END AND REGROUND THE BLADE.

It is very difficult to tell if the face of your carbide tip is flat against the diamond wheel because it is so small.
Take a Sharpie marker and on the side of the blade, mark your starting tooth to be sharpened...ALSO mark the face of the tooth with the black marker. When you feel you have your setup proper and ready to grind, do a very light test grind on this blackened tooth face. If you are not even across the face it will be evident and you must readjust your setup. Remark the tooth face and do another light test grind until you have the geometry correct. Do not move to another tooth until you have this correct. Once correct and your indexer stop is set properly, every tooth will be identical and the grinding will go very quickly. Spending $59 to save the life of $100 plus blades is a NO BRAINER.

I am not sure if I am doing everything correctly and if I am not, maybe someone can point it out. I am sure I will get better as I go.

Monte,great information and photos....thanks for sharing.....Paul