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What is the best way to weld this thick plate on homemade log splitter?

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  • #16
    Now that the welding part is covered, I was wondering why you went with the multi level wedge as opposed to a single strait edge?
    Also, it looks like there is two control valves. Is one blank, or do you have it operating something?

    One other thing you might want to consider is to put some gussets in the web of the I beam under the front edge of the wedge. I have seen where the weld on the wedge has held up just fine but the web on the I beam rips out. It happened to a friend of mine on his splitter.
    To all who contribute to this board.
    My sincere thanks , Pete.

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    • #17
      I live just north of Wausau, a few miles north of the county line, If you need help setting up that dualshield wire let me know, I could stop down and help out. I used to weld structural steel for a living. Either would work fine, dualshield or 7018, I can help ya out with either one. Preheat would help, not completely necessary though.

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      • #18
        7018....Bob
        Bob Wright

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        • #19
          burninbriar,

          Multilevel wedge is a copied design. . in theory it is supposed to start the split close to the strongest part of joint (At the bottom) then as the wood continues through there is less force being applied to the weakest area (the top). I know, not the best explanation, but I hope you get the idea.

          The valve is one of the very cool parts, it is a Prince Auto Cycle valve. To start the cycle, grab both levers and pull forward. Detents hold them there. At end of push, one lever snaps to neutral the cylinder starts retracting and at end that lever goes into neutral position. I know, I know, not the safest.

          This is designed for a 10 sec cycle time, 6 out, 4 back. (36 inch stroke)

          We have discussed gussets and I see what your saying there. Thanks.


          JBFab,

          Thanks for the offer might have to take you up on that offer if things start to look bad.

          Any idea where I should start with the settings on the MM251 when using Triple 7? (volts and wire speed)

          I was leaning toward the sure thing with 7018's, but a part of me wants to try a something new (for me) and go with the Triple 7. I equate it to a plumbing analogy. It's hard to start using plastic Pex hose and fittings when sweating copper pipe for a hundred years has worked so well.

          Today I'm going to go with the Triple 7 until tomorrow when I decide to go with 7018's.

          Sincerely,
          Mr. Wishy Washy

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          • #20
            Just an idea before you weld the wedge completely on. Why not run a bead of hardfacing down the point of the wedge? That should make the pointed edge of the wedge last much longer...Just a thought. Nice looking splitter though

            Oh and if you can't use the dual shield, i vote for 7018

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            • #21
              I say give it a shot. The worst that could happen is the wedge will break off. Given the size of the base and the speed of a splitter, I doubt if a break would be very dramatic. Probably just a loud pop. When you hear it, stop. If so, grind and clean the reweld the other way.

              The hardface idea is a good one. Will keep you from periodically having to grind the wedge. This of course depends on how gritty the wood is you'll be splitting.

              Good luck.

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              • #22
                I don't remember the settings for the Triple 7 at hand, not too hard to setup on a piece of scrap though, you should be able to spray arc that with your machine.

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                • #23
                  use that dual shield you have or metal core (suchs as blueshield la-c6 or hobart fabcore 96), probably need 5 passes with that bevel, wrap your welds, make shure you get it to spray, if your not spraying its not hot enough for that thickness of material

                  the pre-heating wont hurt you, but with multiple passes spraying isnt really nessacary, if you were going to put a 1/4" 1 pass weld on there, then definatly would need to pre-heat

                  with the way the stress is being applied to that joint, so long as you put in good quality welds i couldnt ever see it failing
                  mm210
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                  • #24
                    GMAW or SMAW will do the job, as would GTAW, FCAW, or about anything else commonly found in a weld shop. However, PREHEAT is going to be important.

                    Look into AWS D1.1, and they call for preheating of all materials over 1.125" thick, if I'm not mistaken. I dont have it on this computer, but it's something between 1 and 1.5" that requires preheat. They call for it for a reason. if your first 1-3 passes crack down the middle, covering them up with another pass (once the previous ones have preheated it) is not a good thing.

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                    • #25
                      I wouldn't start welding until there was more bevel. You'll be wearing that wedge if you don't...

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by moe1942 View Post
                        I wouldn't start welding until there was more bevel. You'll be wearing that wedge if you don't...
                        I would have to agree i think it needs more bevel

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                        • #27
                          Only here can a simple weld joint be drug out this far. 27 replies???? hehehehehehhehehehehehehehehhe Get welding and quit thinkin!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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                          • #28
                            That's why I love this board. No shortage of opinions and help, it doesn't get any better. I will post some after pictures once I find some time to get this thing done. Thanks again to all that have weighed in.

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                            • #29
                              I wouldn't be too afraid of welding this. Some on the board apear to think that this wedge is going to come flying off if the weld fails. Now perhaps if you put it on there with a 110v mig that was adjusted to weld sheet metal you might be able to get it to fly, but not a 200+ amp machine adjusted properly. Now, I am no engineer, but I have broke plenty of stuff, and if this weld were to fail it is going to tear out of the beam, not fly off in one piece. Just crank up your welder to the appropriate setting (check the door chart) and weld it up with a few passes on either side, then go split some logs. Trust me, you are in much more danger operating the chain saw than the welder or splitter after you finish it.

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                              • #30
                                Let see, decently welded piece of plate, or a hunk of wood, now what's stronger...
                                Owner of Burnt Beard Fabrication & Welding Ltd.

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