Amsoil in Engine Driven

[Coloradodrifter]

Hey......i use Amsoil in every hole in my trucks and bikes. Anyone using it in their new Bobcats or Trailblazer? Im in SW Colorado and ordering 0.30 weight. good from -50 to 227 degrees.

[Miller John]

I also cannot wait to hear from those who use Amsoil. I hear great things about it, just havn't used it.

We do oil testing in our engines, and after several thousand hours, engines that used synthetic oil are sure nice and clean inside versus full of deposits like conventional oil. The only thing our engine suppliers recommend is: Break in the engine with conventional (approx. 200 hrs) and do not extend oil change intervals with synthetic oils. They are not worried about the oil breaking down, but rather contaminants in the oil wearing out the engine.

I use Mobil 1 synthetic in everything I own, including my welder/generators. I also use Mobil 1 filters where possible because they have synthetic fibers in them rather than paper and do not break down with time like paper elements.

[Laiky]

I run full synth in my vehicles too, usually mobil 1 since costco carries it at a fair price. I change my oil every 4000 miles and average 20,000 miles a year. My Camaro (383) is spotless inside, i credit the synthetic for this. I do not usually extend my intevals since i'm using the factory filtering setup.

If your in the cold of colorado, i would look at a good multiviscosity oil, i run 0w50 in my camaro in the winter

[cruizer]

We've found that a semisynthetic Royal Triton QLT made by "76" lubricants in a 0-30 or 15-40 is best for the diesels and low rev gassers

And Quaker 5-50 appears to be the best full synthetic for the small high rev gassers (winter and summer)


Never did put Amsoil to the test

[Miller John]

I also cannot wait to hear from those who use Amsoil. I hear great things about it, just havn't used it.

We do oil testing in our engines, and after several thousand hours, engines that used synthetic oil are sure nice and clean inside versus full of deposits like conventional oil. The only thing our engine suppliers recommend is: Break in the engine with conventional (approx. 200 hrs) and do not extend oil change intervals with synthetic oils. They are not worried about the oil breaking down, but rather contaminants in the oil wearing out the engine.

I use Mobil 1 synthetic in everything I own, including my welder/generators. I also use Mobil 1 filters where possible because they have synthetic fibers in them rather than paper and do not break down with time like paper elements.

Oops. I need to correct myself. Kohler and Robin can deny warranty if their filters are not used. It is a good idea to use their filters because their filters are very good and their are many very poor filters out there. I do know that their filters have a bypass so that even if they get plugged, the engine still gets oil lubrication. Even dirty oil is better than no oil.

[shadetreewelder]

Here is some information you might find interesting.

http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/...ead.php?t=9976

http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/...ead.php?t=9701

http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/...ead.php?t=4240

http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/...read.php?t=131

Also not long ago Amsoil almost lost their API certification, not a good thing.

BTW, I run Mobil 1 in my TB 302 (Kohler) the reason is for the low pour point (easier cranking and starting in very cold weather) and not the "synthetic" title.

I use my TB 302 for emergency power at the house when needed.

[JET]

Yeah, I am not a fan of Amsoil, their manual tranny fluid is junk and their oils seem to break down fast. Royal Purple is the same way, awesome to start with, but breaks down quickly. A smaller company like that who does have great stuff is Red Line. Mobil 1 is very good also and much cheaper, I use it in the engines of stuff I have, but Red Line in the trannies and gearboxes.

[beamwalker]

i use 20-50 in my 301tb and my goldwing

[Sberry]

A lot of people lose a lot off sleep over oil, most of the worry isnt worth it.

[calweld]

ditto ...........

[shadetreewelder]

i use 20-50 in my 301tb and my goldwing

Not smart.

[Bart Carter]

Amsoil has a response to API requirements:

http://www.performanceoiltechnology....ilicensing.htm

I have friends that are in the racecar preparation business that will only use Amsoil. For example the differentials and transmissions run 20 or more degrees cooler.

[shadetreewelder]

Amsoil has a response to API requirements:

http://www.performanceoiltechnology....ilicensing.htm

I have friends that are in the racecar preparation business that will only use Amsoil. For example the differentials and transmissions run 20 or more degrees cooler.

I am making my point below in reference to Production vehicles under warantee. If you are not running a production vehicle or one that is not under warantee. Then do what you want you will have to pay for it out of your own pocket anyway.

Developing a formulation that can run 20°F cooler in a race car is one thing. Developing a formulation that can run well and meet all requirement from sub freezing temperature (race cars don't see that) to extreme ambient heat is another.

For example, The Original STP was chlorinated paraffin. One heck of a great friction reducing additive, excellent film forming properties and cheap to make. So why don't we use that in all lubes, because when it is activated it releases HCl, hydrochloric acid. Well if you are running a 500 mile race and dump your crankcase as soon a the race is over, no problem. But when you are running 3000-5000 miles in a passenger car that is another issue all together.

I read Amsoils link you posted and what they have put there is factual but not the whole story.

One of the main thing is they state that the testing for the API requirements is $750,000 - $1,000,000. For the most part that is paid by the additive companies and is included in the cost of the additves when purchased, if you purchase their approved packages you do not have to have your own oil tested.

If you do have your own specialty oil and you want API approval then you do have to pony up the cash. Now keep in mind if you do not use the API approved oil in you production car or truck and you have an oil related break down then you will not have the warantee cover it. And yes a basic analysis of the oil for less than $20 will provide the answer on who's oil was in the crankcase when it broke down. Keep in mind all the automotive manufacturers have input into the API specification.

Amsoil also implies that API changes their specification every 2-3 years just to keep making more money. This is not the case most of the requirements are driven by changes in legislation to make oils less hazardous to the enviroment and my more stringent anti-polution/emissions requirements imposed by legislation.

BTW, they have me beat with their 23 years, I only have 16 years in the oil business...

http://www.stle.org/

http://www.stle.org/cls/information.cfm

[Portable Welder]

I'm with SBerry, we have had oil discussion before, for non race engines just make sure you change your oil often and keep it full.

Most stock engines that fail, fail because the oil ran low or the oil was dirty.

I have no problem buying cheap engine oil as long as it meets the API standards.

[shadetreewelder]

Most stock engines that fail, fail because the oil ran low or the oil was dirty.

I have no problem buying cheap engine oil as long as it meets the API standards.

Smart and make sure it is the recommended viscosity grade for you engine application.