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MM 210 Liner Replacement Question

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  • davvet2
    replied
    Mow,

    Currently, on my machine the .035 is facing outside and the wire is in the rear groove.

    According to the manual: "The drive roll consists of two different sized grooves. The stamped markings on the end surface of the drive roll refers to the groove on the opposite side of the drive roll. The groove closest to the motor shaft is the proper groove to thread".

    I've changed mine to where boths rollers read .030 facing outside and will give it a try tomorrow.

    Thanks,

    Jim

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  • mowjunk
    replied
    Jim, forgive me if I'm misunderstanding something here. Is the ".035 " stamp on the outside face of the drive roll? I can't pull the wire thru my gun by hand. Check to see that ".030" stamp is on the outside face of the drive roll. That's the way it needs to be installed for .030" wire.

    Again, sorry if I misunderstood.....

    Mow

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  • davvet2
    replied
    Originally posted by cruizer View Post
    If the wire cannot be spooled in the palm of your hand, you have a drive problem, now if your running 030 wire, why are you using 035 drive wheels. All your going to get is alot of slipping, thus burn back into your tip. Maybe switch to 035 wire and go my route with a single knurled drive wheel, and yes Miller does have them for your machine.
    I'm running .030 drive wheels and .030 wire. The wheels are combination wheels, one side is .030 the other .035. I have them both set up for .030.

    What is this "spooled in the palm of your hand"?

    I was told by a board member last year to adjust the tension so that I could pull the wire through the gun by hand, and that's what was done. I don't have a problem buying the knurled roller and .035 wire.

    I just wanted the machine to operate correctly (which it's never done). I spent two grand on this setup including the spoolgun and jugs -- and it's been sitting since 2005 because I wasn't smart enough to get it working.

    Thanks

    Jim

    Leave a comment:


  • mowjunk
    replied
    Originally posted by Dan View Post
    Your wire speed is way too low for voltage tap #2
    Dan's right - (as usual)

    I think 2/28 is about right according to the chart on the 210 for 75/25 gas....... 2/18 is for 100% CO2...

    mow

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  • cruizer
    replied
    If the wire cannot be spooled in the palm of your hand, you have a drive problem, now if your running 030 wire, why are you using 035 drive wheels. All your going to get is alot of slipping, thus burn back into your tip. Maybe switch to 035 wire and go my route with a single knurled drive wheel, and yes Miller does have them for your machine.

    Leave a comment:


  • Danny
    replied
    Your wire speed is way too low for voltage tap #2

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  • davvet2
    replied
    I've tried several rolls of wire; no difference. I'm running .030 with 75/25.

    Thanks,

    Jim

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  • Danny
    replied
    Are you running and .030 solid wire and 75/25 shielding gas?

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  • hankj
    replied
    Jim,

    Wire feed should be smooth and burn back shouold not be an issue. My 210 has run flawlessly on any wire I've used.

    If you did just change out a spool when this started, Roospike's tip is a good one to check out.

    Hank

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  • davvet2
    replied
    Originally posted by cruizer View Post
    Nothing wrong with the welder, simply use "1" knurled drive roll gaged to the size of wire perferably on the bottom You only have to tighten the drive a little to achieve the required results.

    Forgive my ignorance, I am a nube. My drive rollers are .030 on the back side .035 on the front. They are lined up, and the wire is in the .030 groove.

    The sticker on my machine shows a knurled roller for flux wire, but the smallest is .035.

    Is that what you're suggesting?

    Thanks,

    Jim

    Leave a comment:


  • Roospike
    replied
    I didnt reread the thread but also bad wound wire can cause burn back. I have had 2 bad rolls within months do this to me.

    cruizer also has good input about the one knurled drive roll on your power drive wheel.

    Leave a comment:


  • cruizer
    replied
    Nothing wrong with the welder, simply use "1" knurled drive roll gaged to the size of wire perferably on the bottom You only have to tighten the drive a little to achieve the required results.

    Leave a comment:


  • davvet2
    replied
    Thanks, Guys --

    I went about readjusting the spool and roller tension today, and for awhile the machine welded great on 18 gauge metal. After about 30 minutes of testing, it started burning back again. The speed was on 18, the heat on 2 -- I raised the speed to about 22, and it didn't make much difference.

    There must be something wrong internally for the welder to do this. I've had it since May '05, and haven't been able to get it to work right yet. I've replaced the liner as was suggested, tried different wire, contact tips, reset the tension on the rolllers and wire spool -- but it always come back to the same problem, burning back and welding the wire to the contact tip.

    It's under warranty, do I have to contact Miller before taking it in for service ?

    My problem was having the vehicle to get it there -- I now have an F-150 and a set of ramps to get it loaded.

    Thanks,

    Jim

    Leave a comment:


  • hankj
    replied
    Jim,

    The spacing from the end of the liner to the drive roll shown in your picture is correct. It has nothing to do with amperage. It prevents the electrode wire from kinking at the liner entry point.

    Hank

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  • cruizer
    replied
    Lay the gun out straight( no bends, no coils) remove the old liner and replace it with the new one. tighten allens screws, or caps.

    Cut 3/4" from the torch end. this is for liner and wire strain relief by the way.

    Insert into machine. Now some guns have this liner stick out, some don't, and some machines have a separate liner altogether.

    If the gun liner strikes the drive spools, before being inserted all the way, then trim it back simply to prevent the drive wheel from wearing prematurely and proper drive engagement..

    Leave a comment:

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