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New bandsaw is here, few questions

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  • #16
    For these little bandsaws, run it at the slowest speed for stainless. Also, buy a bi-metal blade.

    The rule of thumb for teeth per inch (TPI) is 3 teeth engaged in the material at all times. So if the material is 1" thick, use 3TPI. For 1/4", use 12TPI. I think the smallest common size is 18TPI. It's hard to find blades that have more teeth than that. I keep a 14TPI and an 18TPI. The 14 is my workhorse. 18 works great for thin stuff.

    I would suggest putting it into vertical mode and feeding the workpiece by hand to get a feel for how it should cut. Stainless takes a slow blade speed and a good amount of pressure to cut well.

    Comment


    • #17
      Hey guys,
      crx,
      I have a saw very simular to yours. A couple of things you want to check. You have to figure out what is stopped when the blade stops. What I mean is- is the blade not turning and the drive wheel is. Or is the drive wheel not turning either. If the drive wheel is turning and the blade isn't then you need to increase the blade tension by turning the black knob on the end of the blade frame. Don't forget blades stretch alot when new. Especially the junk blades that they send with these saws. If the drive wheel isn't turning increase the drive belt tension. Also and very important check the fluid level in the gear box. These saws are known to ruin the gearbox in a couple of days. Seems they sometimes send the saws without any gear oil. The valve on the cylinder is used to hold the saw up when your placing something in the saw to cut. The feed speed is the knob on the top of the valve, turn it out (left) to increase the speed of the feed. If the saw won't come down all the way and there isn't anything holding it up you need to loosen the spring on the back of the saw. When my saw was new it wouldn't drop all the way either.I needed to loosen the spring. As far as blades go you need to get Bi metal blades. I buy from Enco USA good prices and good blades.
      Good luck,
      Bulldog
      5 Passport Pluses
      2 MM 212's
      MM 210
      MM 251 MIA
      MM 350 P w/Python
      Syncrowave 250
      w/ tig runner
      Trailblazer 302
      12RC w/meters
      Spectrum 1000
      Spectrum 2050
      2 Black BWEs
      Joker BWE
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      REAL TRUCKS RATTLE
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      • #18
        CRX,
        I was just checking and Enco has Bi-metal blades on sale for your saw. For stainless I would get there NP371-0412 it's a vari 10-14 tpi for $21.99. By the way your saw is on sale for $698.95 this month w/free shipping.
        Good luck,
        Bulldog
        5 Passport Pluses
        2 MM 212's
        MM 210
        MM 251 MIA
        MM 350 P w/Python
        Syncrowave 250
        w/ tig runner
        Trailblazer 302
        12RC w/meters
        Spectrum 1000
        Spectrum 2050
        2 Black BWEs
        Joker BWE
        Star & stripe BWE Digital
        2 star & stripe xlix's

        REAL TRUCKS RATTLE
        CUMMINS BABY

        Comment


        • #19
          I'm cutting exhaust piping, which is usually 2.5 ID or 3 ID , and its usually all stainless I work with, some mild steel. Then for exhaust manifolds, I'm using sch10 ( which is .165 thickness ) with an od around 1.6 . Ok so material is out of the way.

          I tried adjusting it more today, the blade will stop and the motor will just spin, I don't know for sure but I can here it going around so I would assume the motor is spinning. I did adjust the tension and that seemed to help a little, but the problem still keeps happening. I have the speed at the lowest setting, but not sure if this is good or not, the manual does not really state the speeds but I was always told, slowest speed for stainless.

          Onto the second issue, my feed rate is very very slow, it cuts well, seems like if I turn it up faster the blade will freeze in place like I noted above. Here is the problem though, when the arm is raised and I try to bring it back down, it moves about 3 inches but won't budge at all until I turn the feed rate a little more. So I narrowed this problem down to the hydraulic cylinder. I'm almost postive the spring in the back has nothing to do with this problem, but will loosen it all the way just to be 100%

          BullDog, where is it on sale at ? The grizzly saw, or is it another knock off ? Also where did you find those blades ? I really don't know of any sites ( good ones ) to buy blades. Also how can a blade measure 10-14 teeth per inch ? How can that be ?Also is this the blade ?

          http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...&PMPXNO=948514

          Also when tensioning the blade, there are three tension areas, low strength, medium strength, then high strength, in the manual it says to set it to medium, but is that always the case ? I have it set right by high strength but still in the medium area.

          Everyone thanks for the help, keep any comments coming.

          And thumbs up to grizzly, there service it great.

          We are happy to provide any available documentation for our machines. We have set up order# 4478885 for the G0561 Manual. Your order will arrive in approximately 3-5 business days, once it leaves our Pennsylvania warehouse.
          http://www.rcautoworks.com

          Comment


          • #20
            You said you're cuttings are powdery. On page 26 of the manual they say that is insuficiant preasure and will quickly dull the blade. You need to loosen the spring. This will cause the bow to be heavier and increase down preasure.
            To all who contribute to this board.
            My sincere thanks , Pete.

            Pureox OA
            Westinghouse 300 amp AC stick
            Miller Syncrowave 250
            Hexacon 250 watt solder iron

            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by burninbriar View Post
              You said you're cuttings are powdery. On page 26 of the manual they say that is insuficiant preasure and will quickly dull the blade. You need to loosen the spring. This will cause the bow to be heavier and increase down preasure.
              That would also account for why the bow does not want to come down for you on its own very well.
              Some day I might have a good saw, you all would crack up if you saw mine. Maybe I'll take a picture of it and post it here just for laughs.
              To all who contribute to this board.
              My sincere thanks , Pete.

              Pureox OA
              Westinghouse 300 amp AC stick
              Miller Syncrowave 250
              Hexacon 250 watt solder iron

              Comment


              • #22
                I'm going to loosen the rear spring on the back, just to make sure thats not the issue. Its pretty loose to began with, but hey I could be wrong.
                http://www.rcautoworks.com

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by 90blackcrx View Post
                  I'm going to loosen the rear spring on the back, just to make sure thats not the issue. Its pretty loose to began with, but hey I could be wrong.
                  Since Your blade stops and Your motor keeps running I'd look at the belt tension first....Make sure there's only 1/2" or so movement in the belt under finger pressure. May also be a missing key on one of the pulleys, or a loose setscrew. The blade tension... A saw like that should cut 2-1/2 or 3" stainless tubing VERY quick. What is meant by 10-14 pitch blades is the tooth size varies from 10 up to 14 teeth per inch and then back to 10 tpi. For the thin stuff Your cutting I think You should be running at least 18 tpi or possibly 24. I've cut 2-1/2" OD X .065 wall 304 SS with My little 4"x 6" saw and the cut takes less than 60 seconds.
                  Denny
                  MillerMatic 185
                  HyperTherm 600
                  Dynasty 200 DX
                  Will-Weld 200A Buzzbox
                  O/A torch

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by POWERSTROKE View Post
                    Since Your blade stops and Your motor keeps running I'd look at the belt tension first....Make sure there's only 1/2" or so movement in the belt under finger pressure. May also be a missing key on one of the pulleys, or a loose setscrew. The blade tension... A saw like that should cut 2-1/2 or 3" stainless tubing VERY quick. What is meant by 10-14 pitch blades is the tooth size varies from 10 up to 14 teeth per inch and then back to 10 tpi. For the thin stuff Your cutting I think You should be running at least 18 tpi or possibly 24. I've cut 2-1/2" OD X .065 wall 304 SS with My little 4"x 6" saw and the cut takes less than 60 seconds.
                    What do you mean missing, and the setscrew I have not checked because the saw cuts fine. Its a tad off, but I'm not messing with anything around that area until I get a new blade.

                    I have only seen 10-14 tpi for this size blade, I have not seen 18. Any links ?
                    http://www.rcautoworks.com

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      CRX,
                      Pay close attention to Pete's reponses. He's right on the mark. Also you need to find out what is turning when the blade is not. I would bet that the blade tension is to low. The little gauge that is on the saw is only a reference. If the manufacturer made the blade 1/2" to long that gauge is worthless. Open the belt cover as the saw is cutting. When it stops see what exactly is going on. Just don't stick your fingers where they don't belong...
                      Good luck,
                      Bulldog
                      5 Passport Pluses
                      2 MM 212's
                      MM 210
                      MM 251 MIA
                      MM 350 P w/Python
                      Syncrowave 250
                      w/ tig runner
                      Trailblazer 302
                      12RC w/meters
                      Spectrum 1000
                      Spectrum 2050
                      2 Black BWEs
                      Joker BWE
                      Star & stripe BWE Digital
                      2 star & stripe xlix's

                      REAL TRUCKS RATTLE
                      CUMMINS BABY

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Well I'm 99% sure the motor keeps on spinning, the blade just won't turn.

                        Bull dog was this the blade ?
                        http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...&PMPXNO=948514

                        And I noticed some coolants use the word mist, is this for misting ?
                        http://www.rcautoworks.com

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          On that spring adjustment, what they say about the tension being just to were it wiggles is just a starting point, they say that in the manual.
                          What Bulldog is telling you to do is take the covers off, or open them so you can see exactly whats turning and what stops. Thats the only way to determine where the problem is on you're blade stopping isue.
                          To all who contribute to this board.
                          My sincere thanks , Pete.

                          Pureox OA
                          Westinghouse 300 amp AC stick
                          Miller Syncrowave 250
                          Hexacon 250 watt solder iron

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Yeah, well like I said I'm 99% sure the motor still spins because I can hear it turning, then if I wait, I hear a click and the blade jumps off.

                            So how loose is that spring suppose to be ? I'm going to loosen it all the way to see if it makes a difference but I'm doubting it will, since when I open up the feed rate, the saw goes down with out an issue.
                            http://www.rcautoworks.com

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                            • #29
                              You set it where they tell you on page 26 and make adjustments from there depending on what you're cutting. Looser gives more preasure, tighter gives less preasure. See the NOTE in the manual on that page.
                              http://images.grizzly.com/grizzlycom...ls/g0561_m.pdf
                              To all who contribute to this board.
                              My sincere thanks , Pete.

                              Pureox OA
                              Westinghouse 300 amp AC stick
                              Miller Syncrowave 250
                              Hexacon 250 watt solder iron

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Originally posted by burninbriar View Post
                                You set it where they tell you on page 26 and make adjustments from there depending on what you're cutting. Looser gives more preasure, tighter gives less preasure. See the NOTE in the manual on that page.
                                http://images.grizzly.com/grizzlycom...ls/g0561_m.pdf
                                I have read that about 10 times since, I did not want to start it up before I was 100% sure everything was set. When they say tighten enough to remove play, play in what though ?
                                http://www.rcautoworks.com

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