Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Broken Head Bolt In My Flathead Ford

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    I should have kept a coffee can of broken bolts and fittings I removed. I have drilled a few and did one a little while ago, was feeling frisky and picked up the drill and punched straight thru. If you are using a buzzer 3/32 7018 is the real way to fly. But,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I understand your spot.
    There are some tricks and been doing this along time, probably in the hundreds. The auto hood has made this a lot easier.
    One of the tricks about metallurgy,,, not that I know anything but the lock washer is just hard enough to add a little carbon to the mix and increases the twisting power. Click image for larger version

Name:	bolt removal.JPG
Views:	208
Size:	28.2 KB
ID:	616301

    Comment


    • #17
      I wonder if using a punch and just going clockwise into the jacket would have worked.

      Comment


      • #18
        Any update on this thread?
        A FEW OF MY TOYS !!!

        MX Linux
        LinuxMint

        Miller Roughneck 2E
        Lincoln Weldpak 100
        Gianttech Arc 200
        Victor O/A

        Comment


        • #19
          Originally posted by smawgmaw View Post
          Any update on this thread?
          My plan worked and the tractor is up and running. I ground the broken bolt flat in the hole with the bit pictured earlier. Drilled out the bolt and chased the threads clean. I free handed the drilling due to wobble in the drill press.
          Thank's
          Click image for larger version

Name:	20211025_201331.jpg
Views:	183
Size:	3.29 MB
ID:	618005

          Comment


          • #20
            I've done a good many with TIG. I build up a ball on the broken bolt. When the ball is big enough, I can grip it with Vice Grips. At first, move so little you can barely tell you tried. Wiggle back & forth as long as it takes, or it breaks off. Should it break off, weld another ball on. Each cycle of heating & cooling will serve to shrink the male stud & crush the rust. Might take a few cycles of welding a ball on before you free it up.

            Certaneum once made a stick rod specifically for this. They claimed the flux would protect the female threads if the stud was less than flush.
            Dynasty 280DX
            Bobcat 250
            MM252
            Spool gun
            Twentieth Century 295
            Twentieth Century 295 AC
            Marquette spot welder
            Smith torches

            Comment


            • #21
              Several companies make rods specifically for bolt extraction. I have two brands, one from Rockmount and it might be the certanium brand, called extractalloy. I’ve used both successfully. Problem is, I have almost 10 lbs of the extractalloy and I might have used a dozen or so sticks since I’ve had it and it was expensive.

              Glad to hear you got it running though.

              Comment

              Working...
              X