Stainless steel fuel tank questions?

[451Mopar]

I will be attempting my first stainless steep fuel tank for my '73 Jensen Interceptor, and it will be setup with baffles and internal fuel pump.
My questions are:
#1 - How thick the material should be? Is 16 gauge (0.0625") too thin or thick or about right?
#2 - It looks like 304L material should be used, or is this wrong?
#3 - What backing should be used when welding the sides together?

Any help is appreciated, Thank you.

-Jim G-

[old jupiter]

(This link is for any of you younger fellas who don't remember one of the all-time cool cars):

https://www.google.com/search?q=1973+jensen+interceptor&biw=1349&bih=547&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&sqi=2&ved=0ahUKEwjbvrn8p6LLAhWI7R4KHSHbB7sQsAQIGw

[ryanjones2150]

Cool car.

I'll try to post a picture of some of the back shielding doofloppies I've made sometime tomorrow. I can't do them from the house because I have to resize them. You'll definitely want to back shield your welds.

Why stainless and not aluminum?

I have no idea what gauge steel tanks are made with, but you could probably search online and find out. 16ga sounds like plenty to me.

[451Mopar]

Thanks. I was thinking stainless for E-85 fuel. I was thinking 14 or 16 gauge.

[ryanjones2150]

Does E85 eat through aluminum or something?<br />
<br />
To me, the thicker you go the easier for fabbing it up. <br />
<br />
What are you planning on doing with the car? Aluminum will keep the fuel cooler if you're running some sort of race engine or big ol fuel pump.

[FusionKing]

Aluminum and alcohol isn't really a good combo 😟

[ryanjones2150]

Well then I suppose the stainless steel option is a better choice. Bummer.

[BoilerhouseGuy]

16ga 304ss works fine. I would recommend tacking the complete tank together before welding it out. Welding sections and then adding components may be problematic 16ga will try to warp making fit up hard. Use corner to corner fits and use lots of tacks. When you get ready to weld it out back purge with argon to minimize sugaring. Weld small sections at a time and alternate heat. When your done use light air pressure to test for leaks 5-10lb max.

[ryanjones2150]

This is the doofloppy I made to back purge outside corners. I used scrap I had laying around...two pieces of aluminum angle welded together, the ends capped, one edge flattened and then holes drilled down the length. I stuffed it full of copper pot scrubber stuff and welded on an aluminum bung I made and put in a valve to stop the argon flow. Works great as a heat sink and for back purging.

[ryanjones2150]

Well I don't know what happened to the pictures I attached. Guess we don't get to see them. I posted them on another thread a while back if anyone knows which one to point us to. I surely don't.

[cynthiamyra]

I've used 16 guage. mild steel. It's thin enough that I can cut it with my aircraft snips and low-cost air nibbler. Then I did welding into my friend's welding shop and use his sheet metal brake. It is thick enough to weld with my wire feed and .023" wire without any burn.
But it is highly advisable to do welding under experts supervision. As it can be dangerous, especially when you are doing it for the first time. Good luck!

[samuel joff]

Thanks. I was thinking stainless for E-85 fuel. I was thinking 14 or 16 gauge.

Which one is better 14 or 16?

[samuel joff]

I googled and decided to take 14 gauge. Think i am on the right choice.