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Welding 1/2" 4140 bar

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  • wagspe208
    replied
    Originally posted by wagspe208 View Post
    A couple hundred passes later... looks great!
    Wags

    Oh, yes.. that is exactly how is is supposed to ride. The front sponsons are there for the ride after the launch. Bottom 1/2 of the prop in the water.
    BTW... if you look at the back of the boat you see a black square behind the engine. That is the parachute. Look directly in line below that and you see a black piece with a shaft going forward. That is the strut.
    SO, you can see it carries the boat weight plus a ton of side load. (from bottom half of prop)
    Wags
    Attached Files

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  • wagspe208
    replied
    Originally posted by blown99gt View Post
    crazy.. you gota have a big pair to do that stuff! ill stick to 4 wheels
    All in what you get used to I guess. It is not a beginner ski boat... that is for sure.
    Wags

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  • blown99gt
    replied
    Originally posted by wagspe208 View Post
    A couple hundred passes later... looks great!
    Wags

    Oh, yes.. that is exactly how is is supposed to ride. The front sponsons are there for the ride after the launch. Bottom 1/2 of the prop in the water.
    crazy.. you gota have a big pair to do that stuff! ill stick to 4 wheels

    Leave a comment:


  • wagspe208
    replied
    Put some graphics on over the winter. Had to break up the red a little.
    Attached Files

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  • wagspe208
    replied
    A couple hundred passes later... looks great!
    Wags

    Oh, yes.. that is exactly how is is supposed to ride. The front sponsons are there for the ride after the launch. Bottom 1/2 of the prop in the water.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by wagspe208; 07-21-2011, 09:11 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • blitzman
    replied
    4140

    you can use duplex(2209) or super duplex(2507) with about 400f pre heat. It is very good for any sort of dissimilar welding

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  • wronghand
    replied
    Looks like you already got 'er done, cudo's!! For future reference tho:

    Preheat 5-600 degrees, if possible weld with a nickel/chromoly rod (such as Arctec's Unicrom series) and cool slowly. If you can't find that rod, ER80S-D2 is a real decent option for MIG wire. In the mean time, have fun!!

    WH

    Leave a comment:


  • welder_one
    replied
    still wanna see pics of that beast in actions, please? i am glad that it worked out for ya. i didnt see this post until now. shoot me a pm next time you need a 2 or 3 foot drop of some heavy beam...... heck, i even have a 6 ft drop of 38 inch beam 390 pound per foot

    Leave a comment:


  • wagspe208
    replied
    Well, just a final update.
    I preheated the metal to 600F. Welded it in 2" sections alternating ends, etc to kep it from pulling all to ****, let it cool slowly and bolted her in. I could not have asked for it to work any better. Alignment was awesome. Weld seems to be excellent. It has about 50+ passes on it at 150 mph or so. (8) 6.0 runs at 1000' also. This takes 1200+ Hp ish to do. I have always and still do look at it every pass.
    Preheat is my friend.
    Thanks for the help.
    Wags

    BTW, I milled a slot in the top plate and pressed the vertical part in to the slot. I welded on the top then and around the bottom. (so this is about 30+ inches of weld total) The tube (that the propshaft goes through) I milled a slot for alignment and it had about .001 press to the vertical piece.

    PS we won the last 4 out of 5 races after that. 1 for 10g.!!

    Leave a comment:


  • Sberry
    replied
    Actually 2 ft drops of beams are common in fab shops, scrap bins are full of them as there isn't much call for short drops. I personally wouldn't make it from an exotic alloy if mild would do.

    Leave a comment:


  • jerems
    replied
    Omg

    Holy chit mahn!! That's an engine! Couldn't you find a little bigger one to put in there? I like you logic - good luck in your solution.

    Leave a comment:


  • wagspe208
    replied
    It is not ugly white anymore. I will see if I have any good pics.
    Wags

    I have to get a spectacular shot scanned in the computer. I will give it a whirl in the next few days.
    Attached Files

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  • STRENGTH AND POWER
    replied
    www.discountsteel.com has I-beam of all sizes, by their website, it looks like you could get just 2'. Offices in Ft. Worth and St. Paul, I doubt shipping would be outrageous.

    Coating wise, maybe zinc or galvanized? The zinc plater I use would probably charge 5 bucks to plate it.

    Hope this helps.

    Don't be a tease, post some pics of this boat in action

    Leave a comment:


  • FusionKing
    replied
    Many steel places have "drops"....They are easy to find. Houses only need what they need what they order. I have seen piles of drops scrapped.
    Do you know exactly what the Big Boys are using here?
    I have a friend who won a national meet but it was a blown hydro with a jet.
    I know of another freind also,but would need a bit of time with the holiday going on. He runs at Havasou(sp) every year.
    Gotta weld like crazy today and then intertain for 3 days.
    I see virtually no advantage of using 4140 here. By the time you weld it as needed you will need to heat treat to gain strength back to where it is stronger and safer than mild and that is a weld that will be on both sides of the top and bottom. You will have a giant haz which for all I know might be a better thing if you are using the correct filler.
    I would look much harder for a beam if you want this to be nice. Over half of your work would be done if you can find one thick enuff to suit the purpose.
    I do understand your logic on doing it yourself. I was a racer for years and still fab a few things for friends. I made everything. Headers, pan, cage, rear end, seat, sheetmetal.
    What size beam could you use if there was some? 8 inch maybe? Actually much bigger would be better, like 18" or something just to get a bunch more thickness I would think. You could even wing shape it.
    What is the material of the bearing portion?
    Where are you located? Just thinking about shipping.
    Last edited by FusionKing; 09-04-2009, 06:25 AM.

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  • wagspe208
    replied
    Originally posted by FusionKing View Post
    Myself, considering all the different beam sizes out there, would find going that route hard to resist.
    You would be hard pressed to find much advantage fabbing that part, IMO,
    out of 4140, and getting it both straight enough, and welded good enough, to exceed a heavy beam.
    You could even machine on the beam and make it very nice.
    Please don't take this wrong but the very fact that you present this question raises an eyebrow about whether or not this is a good idea for YOU to do.
    Billet would be the way to go. Esp. for a master machinist.
    Have you seen any made from aluminum?
    I thought about the beam route. Some guys use beams. Struggled to find one locally. (Plus I only need 2', not 22') Open for sources.
    Straight--yep, no easy task, but doable.
    Me asking the question means beyond my capabilities. No offense taken Maybe right, probably right. Problem is, I don't know someone I trust more with my life than me. I could take it to the local weld shop, they do a half assed weld, I'd never know. That is my only reasoning. Never had to preheat any moly tube. It was all thinner stuff.
    My real preheat question is because my buddy had his done, no preheat. No cracks. That does not make it right, though.
    None out of aluminum that I know of.
    Thanks, really no offense taken.
    Wags

    Leave a comment:

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