Can anyone tell me where I can find fine tooth hole saws? I have a JD Squared Inc Notch Master tubing notcher that works fine but the Morse Master Cobalt bi-metal hole saws that I got from Van Sant keep breaking the teeth off. I am trying to notch 3/4, 7/8 and 1" 4130 chromoly to make bumpers for micro sprints and sprint cars. Thanks in advance!!!
Where can I find fine tooth hole saws?
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Ive sheared the teeth off a boat load of hole saws...but the rigid ones always seem to do me alright...besides that, theyre local (home depot) and cheap.
Beyond that...heres a couple places I found really quickly.
Chicago Brand Online Retail - Online tool store featuring Tube Benders, Tube notchers, machinist tools, and tool belts
Stay away from starrett hole saws...ive had WAY too many of them lose teeth on the first time it touched tubing. Lost half a saw in less than half a second.
Hope that helpsPrecision is only as important as the project...if you're building a rocket ship...1/64" would matter. If you're building a sledgehammer...an 1/8" probably wont.
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I dont know about the OP, but those starretts failed on me running 225 on 1.5 .120 wall.
I eased it in, cut all the way through the wall, and then *SNAPSNAPSNAPSNAPSNAPSNAP* half the hole saw was gone.Precision is only as important as the project...if you're building a rocket ship...1/64" would matter. If you're building a sledgehammer...an 1/8" probably wont.
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Well, your surface speed was right on, but did you have 3 teeth in the cut?
Hole saws are just like band saws. Too few teeth in the cut and it's gonna end badly.
I've had good luck with morse bimetal blades, but I've also tweaked them around the hub so the whole blade runs out.
Annular cutters are probably the solution. Better tooth support, and more like a milling cutter rather than a saw blade. The only issue there with having too little tooth contact is potentially chatter (which is still going to be miles beyond the cut quality of a hole saw).Syncrowave 250DX
Invison 354MP
XR Control and 30A
Airco MED20 feeder
Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 81
Smith O/A rig
And more machinery than you can shake a 7018 rod at
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I honestly dont know, but it was a 6 TPI saw.
I wasnt forcing it down hard...just keeping a touch of pressure on the arm of the drill press so that it was making contact.
One tooth probably caught, and caused the rest to follow...but it happend 3 saws in a row! Then I grabbed a rigid, and it worked fine.Precision is only as important as the project...if you're building a rocket ship...1/64" would matter. If you're building a sledgehammer...an 1/8" probably wont.
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In my experience, you've gotta baby hole saws on tubing. Your fixturing also needs to be very rigid or bad things are likely to happen.
The one I lost to tweaking it out of round was on AL. It was 2" 6061 tubing I was coping the end on in my camelback drill press (very stout machine). I accidentally let go of the handle while it wasn't balanced (single slide bar handle) and the saw came down an hit the part causing it to catch. Well, the work stayed put, the drill kept turning it, and the blade went c0ckeyed.
I love my camelback drill. It runs really slow, and has lots of torque. Sometimes that's not so good for the bits.Syncrowave 250DX
Invison 354MP
XR Control and 30A
Airco MED20 feeder
Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 81
Smith O/A rig
And more machinery than you can shake a 7018 rod at
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Hole saws
Try Irwin hole saws I get the best service from them.
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Originally posted by KC1 View PostTry Irwin hole saws I get the best service from them.
But I have found the Rigids from Home Depot are cheaper and last longer for my use. They even sell them in 3-packs.
Those fine tooth ones look cool but I am not seeing the sizes I use. like 1 7/8th"
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