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Removable Rear X-Brace

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  • Removable Rear X-Brace

    I’m in the process of adding an ‘X’ brace to my chassis. One half of the ‘X’ over the motor the other half in the halo bar. With that I need to install a removable ‘V’ brace in the chassis over the rear mounted motor. The other ‘V’ in the halo will be fixed. I think you’ll get the idea with this picture.

    That said, I’m looking for the best way to build the removable ‘V’ over the motor. I’ve been looking a Tubing Couplers like these which seem like they might just do the trick,,,, but though I’d see if you guys have any better ideas.


    Many thanks!

  • #2
    The first question I have to ask is this car for street or competition? If it is for competition then check with your sanctioning body. There are many ways to create a removable brace. One is to simply slide a larger tube over the smaller tube at each end, thru drill them and bolt them in place. Some others are shown in the SCCA's 2009 GCR. If you google 2009 GCR it will take you to the web page where you can download it. It is a PDF file so you will need Adobe Acrobat Reader.


    • #3
      Heim joint

      HEIM JOINT Google it they come in all different sizes


      • #4
        OT, but what trans is that and what's it from? Kinda reminds me of one from a DeTamoso Pantera but looks a tad different and it's seemingly hooked to a chevy motor?

        Fill me in on the car, I'm no help on the cage specs without consultin the same sanctioning body regulations you would have to follow buti don't know your class.
        Dynasty 200DX
        Hobart Handler 135
        Smith MB55A-510 O/A setup
        Hypertherm Powermax 45
        Just about every other hand tool you can imagine


        • #5
          Looks a whole lot like a Factory 5 GTM...

          And thats an LS6 (aluminum C5 Corvette motor) with what looks like a Porsche trans axle.

          Either way, its gonna run like a scalded dog when its done.

          Not so sure that I would run those tubing couplers...but thats my personal preference...I'd say a heim joint would do everything you need it to. You'd also have a double shear on the bolt, which could be say...a 3/4" grade 8 if you wanted it to be.

          Like SCCATECH said though, if its ever gonna run competition, look in the rule book and see what you have to do.

          Hope that helped.
          Last edited by On fire most of the time; 05-20-2009, 09:32 AM.
          Precision is only as important as the project...if you're building a rocket ship...1/64" would matter. If you're building a 1/8" probably wont.


          • #6
            Brian C.
            Turbobrian Fabrication LLc.
            Miller D165
            Miller 140
            Miller Digital Elite


            • #7
              I'm building a VW pan based car. The cage is welded to plates on the rocker sills and also bolts to the pan. This allows the body to be seperated from the pan. For my seat bars, I welded from the sill bar to the pan (same with the diagonals from the seat belt bar to the tunnel) and used a coupler like this

              These are not the exact ones I got, but gives you the idea. My are for 1.75", but turned down to have the "neck" for 1.625x.134 tubing. They work good.
              Dynasty 200DX
              MillerMatic 180AS
              14" Milwaukee Cold Saw
              8" Milwaukee Metal Circular Saw
              JD^2 Model 32 Tubing Bender
              JD^2 Notch Master


              • #8
                what ever your doing I think it will look good.