Anyone know where to get a variable speed motor control to drop my 115volt 15 amp ac chopsaw motor from 3900rpm to 1600rpm or so? I am looking to run some of my Dewalt carbide metal blades for some nice clean cuts versus the standard metal cutting blades and don't want to damage them with the high speed. Thanks. Dave
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Need a speed control to reduce my chopsaw speed.
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dumb ***
you can not do this!!!!
those saws are not designed to cut at a slower speed and the motors are not built to handle the stresses that carbides produce. they are more agressive and grab when cutting.trailblazer 280 nt with 3000 hrs and running strong
today I bought a new trailblazer 302
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The guy at Sharp-rite where I bring my wood and metal blades to get sharened says he has seen it done quite often. He mentionaed a speed control that you can get through a woodworking magazine but I couldn't find what he was talking about. The Dewalt carbide I have definitely cuts alot "easier" than the disposable type wheels. I guess this is because it "machines" the metal when making a cut versus grinding it. And the nice thing is the metal doesn't get hot. But, I was using the blades at 3900 rpm not realizing max speed was 1800rpm, so you can ultimately see why they didn'rt last as long as they should . Speed=friction=heat. Anyways, if I can't find anything online I'm just gonna drive back to him to see what the piece was called. Thanks again. Dave
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Grizzly sells a router speed control, but your chop saw motor WILL burn out if you use a carbide blade and reduce the speed in half. Not Might, it will. I went through two saws this way, then broke down and bought a bandsaw. I will eventually buy a cold cut saw made for the purpose as well, but since I had to cut some 8" and 9" beams, it only made sense to get the bandsaw. Best money I have ever spent. The cut quality is between an abrasive and a cold cut, almost as nice as the cold cut carbide saws.
Not trying to be a downer, but if you want to waste $50 on a speed control, and then have to buy another saw soon to replace the one that gets burnt up, its up to you.Voigt Precision Welding, Inc.
Miller Dynasty 200 DX, Miller Syncrowave 250, MillerMatic 252, Hypertherm Powermax 45, Auto Arc Trailpower 8000,272+187 lb Peter Wright anvil, 120 lb Fisher-norris, and more! Buffalo drill press, Grizzly Horiz. Bandsaw, Edwards shear, Barth Shear, bantam mechanical ironworker, Hopkins fly press, Doall Bandsaw, brown and sharpe surface grinder.
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Dave,
Listen to what some of the other posters have told you.
A speed reducer for your abrasive saw is not the solution. Reducing the speed also reduces the torque. You WILL (not may) burn up a perfectly good chop saw.
Porter Cable, Milwaukee, Makita, etc all make cold cut saws designed to operate at the speeds dictated by carbide blades. I understand that Evolution (looks like a Porter Cable) also makes a 14" cold cut saw which Sears sells for in the $270 range. If it is indeed, a rebadged PC, it is a good saw.
The cold cut saws are well worth the money. You'll want to keep the abrasive though, since the cold cut saws arn't recommended for re-bar or other "mystery metal" such as bedframes.
Check out FleaBay, since there seems to be a big markup on the saws.Syncrowave 250 DX Tigrunner
Dynasty 200 DX
Miller XMT 304 w/714D Feeder & Optima Control
Miller MM 251 w/Q300 & 30A SG
Hobart HH187
Dialarc 250 AC/DC
Hypertherm PM 600 & 1250
Wilton 7"x12" bandsaw
PC Dry Cut Saw, Dewalt Chop Saw
Milwaukee 8" Metal Cut Saw, Milwaukee Portaband.
Thermco and Smith (2) Gas Mixers
More grinders than hands
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Dynasty 200 DX
Millermatic 175
Spectrum 375
All kinds of Smith OA gear
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SundownIII,
thanks for the tip!!!!!!! I got a new Steelmax(www.Steelmax.com) chop saw, cuts mildsteel like it says it would, WAS going to use if for some rebar!!! Guess I'll use my oxy/acet torch since I gave my abrasive one to a friend!
I would hate to have ruined a $100 bladeI'm not late...
I'm just on Hawaiian Time
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Bert,
No problem. Hope it did save a $100 blade.
With my Porter Cable 1410, the instruction manual (yea, I do read those things) says specifically, NOT to cut rebar. That's why I kept my DeWalt chop saw (for mystery metal).
You may want to check out FleaBay for spare blades. If you do a search for Freud Saw Blades, you'll find the Freud Diablo 14" Metal Cutting Blades. I've picked up 4 spares. All have been under $50, shipping included. They seem to work just as well as the blade that came with the saw.
On a sidenote, last fall I had to cut "a lot" of 2 x 1/4" galvanized strap to make backing plates (cheaper than $1.50 washers) for rebuilding my dock. Used the chop saw for that. Really made me appreciate the Porter Cable.
AlohaSyncrowave 250 DX Tigrunner
Dynasty 200 DX
Miller XMT 304 w/714D Feeder & Optima Control
Miller MM 251 w/Q300 & 30A SG
Hobart HH187
Dialarc 250 AC/DC
Hypertherm PM 600 & 1250
Wilton 7"x12" bandsaw
PC Dry Cut Saw, Dewalt Chop Saw
Milwaukee 8" Metal Cut Saw, Milwaukee Portaband.
Thermco and Smith (2) Gas Mixers
More grinders than hands
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