Air compressor piping

[Wheels]

I`m looking into changing my shop over to either 1/2 or more likely 3/4 inch plastic air brake line like large trucks are equipped with. I`ll post back as to what size hole it will leave in my wallet . but it should last for ever as long as it isn`t exposrd to high heat and it should be easily modified .


Mike

[flukecej]

We have galvanized steel pipe in our shop. it is a mix of 3/4", 1", and 1-1/4" pipe. The compressor it self has a single hot-dog tank constructed from 8" Sch. 40 Black Steel Column Pipe. Shop Air Storage is a 40 Gallon LP tank from an Oliver Tractor. The line is about 25 feet in total length. The compressor is hooked up via a 3/8" Hydraulic Hose line with 1/4" Milton Air Fittings. This compressor has been moved around and taken out of the shop for use on occasion. We have plugged tees at the ends of the horizontal runs for future tie ins or expansion. If we had not used galvanized pipe, we would have used black pipe instead. Maximum pressure on the system is 125 PSI. The pipe and fittings are all rated minimum of 600 PSI. The storage tank is equipped with at least two brass ball valves for the existing line and one more for future runs in the shop. We used Rector-seal No. 5 Soft Set Pipe Dope initially but now use IPS Teflon pipe paste/dope same as we use on our water well work.

Other shops I have worked in all used Sch. 40 Galvanized or Black Steel pipe. Main distribution was at least 2" with 1-1/2" Drops with 1", 3/4" or even 1/2" spurs running to points of use.

PVC Pipe, even Schedule 80 threadable PVC is NOT RATED or DESIGNED to be used with air. New of one manufacturer here in Plainview that used Sch. 80 pipe and fittings for air in the plant. After 6 month of constants repairs and flying shrapnel from the PVC line, it was all replaced with steel line. The cost of the PVC was half that of the Steel, but the repairs alone cost more that the original install and the steel replacement combined.

D.O.T. Plastic line is used for Air Service on Trucks and D.O.T. regulated equipment. Its not really meant for general use in a shop. It also has a tendency to burst and break and scare one senseless. Ruptures with D.O.T. line generally happen on the coldest or hottest day when you need reliable air the most. Also, it tend to be a tad pricey. The plastic or brass fittings, ferrules, inserts and connectors are not cheap either.

Have you priced copper lately? Black or Galvanized steel will cost you less. I can cut and thread steel pipe faster than messing with the solder and preparation needed to make copper seal up good. But that is me.

Since your compressor is already equipped with a 2" x 3/8" bushing, it would be really simple to just change it out to what ever 2" x X" you may require. I personally would run a minimum of 1" or even 1-1/4" line. Just makes for easy flow. Plus, the line itself will give you some storage. Drops in at least 3/4". Don't for get your moisture traps and line drains on your drops and at the end of the lines. Also, for extended lateral runs, don't for get to put some slope in the line so your moisture will run down the pipe to moisture trap and drain points.

Charlie

[Wheels]

I found an old invoice from a box of 1/2 inch plastic and it comes out at around 50 cents per foot. As far as bursting in extreme weather, in the 35 years running air brakes the only failure I have seen is from a close encounter with a cutting torch or a situation where a hole is rubbed through.

Only a hand full of fittings would be needed as it can be had in rolls of 50, 100, and 200ft. Haven`t priced 3/4" yet , but I think it is a good option for me.

Mike

[Richard]

we run 3/4" black iron pipe threw out our shop and it works great for air tools
but have a bigger 3" main black iron pipe straight from the compressor,that feeds the Bead blasters and reduces down to 3/4" close to the blaster hook ups.

I would say in your case 3/4" black iron pipe would work well

good luck


............. Richard

[190MPH]

Being a pipefitter and working in the instrumentation sector of the field right now, I will give you the standard for running air lines, and this is a standard that is adopted pretty much industry-wide. Run your your mains and drops in galvanized threaded pipe. Also, do not come off the bottom of the main with your drops. Instead, face the tee up, and make double 90 breaks down wherever you need them. This will prevent most of any moisture in the main from getting to your tools. Put a low point drain on every drop to allow you to do periodic blowdowns. And use teflon tape(PTFE) on the threads. Using liquid pipe dope will have the potential of the dope getting into your tools. It may cost a few extra dollars, but it will be right. If youreally want the Cadillac installation, do it in stainless tubing and compression fittings.

[weldthis]

have been using pvc for 25 years..no problem...you just have to use the thicker 1/2" pipe,not the paper thin sprinkler low pressure stuff


make you wall mounts with a 90 degree elbow or T if you want a drain, welded to a plate with holes for mounting

[tenfingers]

The compressor I have had the 2" to 3/8 bushing with the O ring. It cost me $12.00 to have it drilled and tapped for 3/4 pipe thread at the neighborhood machine shop.

To insulate the vibrations of the pump from the distribution piping, have a hose made. NAPA made mine or you could have it made at a hydraulic place.

[eyecandy]

The compressor I have had the 2" to 3/8 bushing with the O ring. It cost me $12.00 to have it drilled and tapped for 3/4 pipe thread at the neighborhood machine shop.

To insulate the vibrations of the pump from the distribution piping, have a hose made. NAPA made mine or you could have it made at a hydraulic place.

Thanks for the idea on fixing the reducer. Did you ever look into a replacement?

What kind of hose did you get made?


I think I am going to run atleast 3/4 for the mains and 1/2 for the drops. As I was looking over some specs on the tools I have they recommend 3x for the mains and 2x for the drops. I gotta check some pricing for the copper, but I may jump to 1" and 3/4". For the time being to atleast use it temporarily I am going to hook my hose reel up to it.

What kind of oil/moisture seperator should I get? How many (needed for each drop)? and what kind of placement? I have a 12gal oilless compressor and I purchased a moisture seperator for that, but this will get much more use and with being an oil compressor I definatley need a seperator.

[tenfingers]

As far as a replacement for the 2" I figured the shop would have it done in less time than it would take to start looking for it.

The hose is 3/4 hydraulic hose rated around 3000 psi if I remember right.

Dry clean air is very important. I use a coil of 1/2 copper cooled by a fan that goes on and off with the compressor.

The coil is plumbed between the compressor and the tank to get the most temperature drop. The cooler the air the less moisture it can hold.

Most people I know use the motorguard filter with reuseable elements.

[eyecandy]

As far as a replacement for the 2" I figured the shop would have it done in less time than it would take to start looking for it.

The hose is 3/4 hydraulic hose rated around 3000 psi if I remember right.

Dry clean air is very important. I use a coil of 1/2 copper cooled by a fan that goes on and off with the compressor.

The coil is plumbed between the compressor and the tank to get the most temperature drop. The cooler the air the less moisture it can hold.

Most people I know use the motorguard filter with reuseable elements.

Thanks again!

I have question about the coil you made up, do you have any photos of it or can you get me some? I was thinking of doing something like this to cool the air intake the tank I guess kinda like an intercooler. Because I wanted a two stage compressor, but the price of the Kobalt was to hard to pass up.

What is the difference between a single and two stage compressor? All I can see is that the two stage are a V-compressor where as the single is an inline, is that the only difference?

[tenfingers]

Two stage compressors have two cylinders the first feeding the second typically compress to 175 psi.

Single stage compressors typically got to around 125 psi or so.

I don't have a camera to post pics.

I just took the coil out of the box and formed it into a shape like a coil spring on a car with space between the windings. I fed air in the top and out the bottom so the moisture would flow downhill into the tank.

It is important to drain the tank at the end of the day.

I put a drain valve from a semi truck air tank and ran the cable over to the light switch so I can just pull it when I turn out the lights.

[tenfingers]

Here are a couple of sites to search for info on dryers/seperators


http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/index.php

http://s6.invisionfree.com/ToolBoxTalk


SFT is a good bunch of people very helpful.

TBT has some good info but people not as nice


Your results may vary

[tenfingers]

Here is a picture of similar coil. post #6 top pic

http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtal...ght=Air+dryers

Here is the valve I use for the drain.

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...alve+%2f+Drain


Another suggestion would be to have your quick disconnects pointing down to reduce stress on the hoses.


Some more info you may find helpfull

http://www.tptools.com/StaticText/ai...ng-diagram.pdf

[eyecandy]

Here is a picture of similar coil. post #6 top pic

http://www.hobartwelders.com/weldtal...ght=Air+dryers

Here is the valve I use for the drain.

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...alve+%2f+Drain


Another suggestion would be to have your quick disconnects pointing down to reduce stress on the hoses.


Some more info you may find helpfull

http://www.tptools.com/StaticText/ai...ng-diagram.pdf

Thanks again! The coil was not quite what I had in mind, but it seems to work.

The link you posted up on the drain valve does not work do you have a part number?

[ultim8wldr]

air pipe

Id use black or galv. or if you want quick use poly,